Each tourist packs one of those devices sold by Mr. Eastman. At many of
the ceremonies, particularly the Flute Dance, cameras are barred by the
Hopi, and I had their restriction respected. But when I proposed to
increase the tribe’s revenue by taxing each visitor a dollar for the
camera privilege, the clan thought it good business, and asked me to
arrange it. I had camera tags prepared, and the trails to the top
policed. Each policeman was accompanied by a representative of the
clan, who sold the tags, and who carried a sack of money to change
anything up to a fifty-dollar bill. Usually twenties were thrust
forward, and promptly nineteen hard, cumbersome cart-wheels were dumped
into the canny tourist’s lap. It was disconcerting to those who sought
that form of evasion. Occasionally came one who demanded a decision of
the Supreme Court against this outrage, chanting invariably that he was
a taxpayer, and often adding that he knew Wilson, or whoever happened
to occupy the place of Chief Magistrate. But backing the collector was
the imperturbable Indian policeman, who did not pay taxes and who did
not know Wilson. The policeman knew Moungwi only, who had been found
ready to “stand behind,” as an officer put it. Either pay “una peso,”
“shu-kashe-vah,” “thathli ibeso,” or “one iron-man,” in Spanish, Hopi,
Navajo, or Americanese, whatever language you cared to have it in, or
surrender that black devil-box in which a man’s spirit may be
imprisoned.
One dollar! Yet there were many who sought to evade, and forced
unpleasantness; there were a few who flatly refused to pay and yielded
their kodaks; there was even one who tried to steal a moving-picture
film, who was hunted down at night in the black desert, caught in the
early morning, handcuffed, lodged in the Agency hoosegow, and had his
precious record confiscated for Uncle Samuel, who preserves it in
Washington to-day. This tricky envoy of a famous news-service has
related in a magazine his harrowing experience, giving me full credit
as his one-time host. I have not space in which to analyze his
inaccuracies. Suffice it to say that he cost one very tired and
harassed Moungwi and two hard-boiled rangemen a night’s rest. He should
know that every trail to the railroad was watched, and he would just as
surely have been apprehended and had his outfit confiscated had he
escaped to the Mecca of Los Angeles, that windy city out of which he
worked. The jurisdiction of the Indian Agent extended there, or for
that matter anywhere, in connection with a plot affecting his wards.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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