The place was lighted by large swinging lamps, borrowed for the
occasion from the trader, lamps that have wide tin shades and may be
quickly turned to brilliancy or darkness by a little wheel at the side.
I had expected to find it a gloomy place, whereas they had arranged
something very like the lighting of a theatre. It was a trifle
difficult to find a place in that crowded vault. The far end was kept
clear, but the two long sides and the ladder-end were packed with Hopi
women and their little ones. Just as I have seen in our theatres, the
children could scarcely repress their nervous interest, now sitting,
now standing on tiptoe, turning and watching, as if this would hasten
matters.
I seated myself on the lower rung of the ladder, believing this place
would be most desirable from my point of view, because from it I had a
view of the kiva’s centre and could most easily make my way to the
upper air when things became too thick. A crowded kiva is rather
foreign in atmosphere when filled to its capacity and with lamps going.
But I soon found that I would be disturbed. From above came the noise
of rattles and the clank of equipment, calls and the shuffling of feet.
A line of dancers descended upon me. I moved to let them pass into the
lighted centre-space. They were garbed in all the color and design of
Hopi imagination, and wore grotesque masks. They lined up, and I sensed
that their mission was one of merrymaking. Two clowns headed the band,
and soon had the audience convulsed. They hopped about, postured, and
carried on a rapid dialogue. There was a great deal of laughter.
I had my usual experience in trying to gain a knowledge of the show
through an interpreter, quite the same as that lady who accompanied an
attaché to hear a speech by Bismarck in the Reichstag. You will
remember that the visitor kept demanding interpretation, whereas the
attaché remained silent, intently listening, as the Iron Chancellor
droned on, monotonously voluble.
“What does he say?” asked the visitor for the fifth time.
“Madam,” replied the attaché, “I am waiting for the verb!”
And that is about as far as I ever got toward exact knowledge of the
clowns in any dance. I have tried it many times. The interpreter always
enjoyed the show for himself, first, and left me in outer darkness.
Occasionally he would attempt to explain some part of the horseplay in
progress, probably such simple portions as he thought my feeble
intellect would rise to.
“You see,” he would begin, pointing, “he is one of the uncles!”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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