I can remember leaving Chin Lee one winter’s night, black shadows on
the snow-covered desert and a razor-edged wind coming straight out of
that huge funnel, Cañon de Chelly, to go seventy-five miles to Kayenta,
the most isolated post-office and trading-post in the United States. I
had been bluffed into it by my friend, the Water-Witch, who wanted to
save the morrow’s daylight.
“Can you stand an all-night hike?” he asked, solicitously. “Sing out if
you can’t. There’s a good bed here, and—”
“I’m game for it, if you are,” I said, but without enthusiasm.
The engine of his emaciated Ford clucked, and the snow crunched under
its wheels. For the first hour a brisk conversation kept us illuminated
and fairly warm. Then it grew deadly cold, with that relentless,
piercing cold to be experienced only at night in those cruelly bleak,
windswept, desert wastes. I bit down on my pipe to prevent my teeth
castanetting. I felt of my face to be sure it had not cracked off. And
we rode on and on, paralleling the dim Black Mountain barricade.
Finally, with bitter exasperation, the Witch called out: “Dammit all!
ain’t you cold?”
“Froze,” I gasped.
“Well, there’s a trading-post hiding in this side cañon, if I can find
the road to it. You’ll never sing out. I give up. Let’s make for camp
before we both perish.”
I uttered choking sounds of thanksgiving. And it drearily seemed, for a
space, that he would not be able to find the trail. The snow was
unbroken in the hills. Then we caught a gleam from the black, gave a
hail, and found a cedar-fire welcome.
Those are Arizona adventures.
One may encounter them in boggy flats, or in blinding snowstorms; in
seeking to cross a river in springtime without too much knowledge of
the ford; in facing the hot sand’s lash that stings as powdered glass;
with exhausted horses and far from the town, on hearing the crunch of a
drive-pinion twenty miles the wrong side of home; at nightfall; at
midnight, noon, or dawn. The blush of morning on snow-encrusted cliffs,
the wistful mysteries of summer twilight, the burnished glories of an
autumn sunset, have no appeal then. Simple struggles with the elements
and distances of the lonely Desert, when tired out, cold, hungry. They
are the day’s work, hard, exhausting work. And one does not record such
things in Annual Reports.
But, since adventures are in demand, perhaps I can resurrect a thrill
or two from the notebook. Long ago I listed them as scenery for
stories, meaning to import a few interesting and even beautiful types
as characters, for the honest-to-God, on-the-ground people steadily
refused to become heroic. Relatively mild affairs these, with only two
persons killed, two crippled up a bit, some little blood spilled, and
lots of nervous imagining. My men were uneasy at the time, and I most
scared of all.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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