Indiscreet Letters From Peking: Being the Notes of an Eye-Witness, Which Set Forth in Some Detail, from Day to Day, the Real Story of the Siege and Sack of a Distressed Capital in 1900—The Year of Great Tribulation
History
Indiscreet Letters From Peking: Being the Notes of an Eye-Witness, Which Set Forth in Some Detail, from Day to Day, the Real Story of the Siege and Sack of a Distressed Capital in 1900—The Year of Great Tribulation
Beijing (China) -- History -- Siege, 1900 -- Personal narratives; Putnam Weale, B. L. (Bertram Lenox), 1877-1930 -- Correspondence
One night, after journeying for a long time, we camped in one of these
little mountain burgs, taking full possession, so that there should be
no treachery while it was dark. The night passed quietly, for even
fifty miles beyond Peking the terror lies heavy on the land, and in
the morning we wandered to the massive iron-clad gates and the tall
watch-towers which stood sentinel on either side to see if there was
anything to be had. How old these were, how very old! For, mounting
the staircase leading to the towers, we found that, although the rude
rooms beneath showed signs of having been recently occupied, the stone
steps which led to the roof-chambers were covered with enormous
cobwebs and great layers of dust, showing that nothing had been
disturbed for very many years. That was as it should be. At the very
top of one tower we discovered a locked door, and beating it in amid
showers of dust, we penetrated a room such as a witch of mediaeval
Europe would dearly have loved. Nothing but cobwebs, dust, flapping,
grey-yellow paper and decay. It was immensely old.
And yet we found something. For there were some chests hidden away,
and prizing these open, we discovered great books of yellow parchment,
so old and so sodden that they fell to pieces as soon as one touched
them. They were in some Mongol or Manchu script. They, too, were
centuries old. But there was something else--a great discovery.
Beneath the books we found helmets, inlaid with silver and gold and
embellished with black velvet trappings studded with little iron
knobs. There were also complete suits of chain armour. It seemed to us
in that early morning that we were suddenly discovering the Middle
Ages, perhaps even the Dark Ages. For these things were not even early
Manchu; they were Mongol; Mogul--the war-dress of conquerors whose
bodies had been rotting in the dust for five, six, seven, eight, or
even nine centuries. These relics had lain there undisturbed for all
this time because China has been merely tilling the fields and
neglecting everything else. In a curious mood we donned these suits
and went down below clad as the conquerors of old.
There were some Indian troopers waiting, and when they saw these
things they exclaimed and muttered excitedly to one another, casting
half-startled looks. These were the same trappings and war-dresses as
in the days of the Great Moguls at Delhi. The very same. The
conquerors who had swept across high Asia had worn such things, and
every man from Northern India must have understood their meaning and
message. As they looked the Indian troopers chattered and talked to
one another in a growing excitement. It seemed as if we had suddenly
dug up some links of the half-forgotten past which showed how the
chain of armed men had been tightly bound by Genghis Khan and Batu
Khan, and all the other great Khans, from the Great Wall of China all
round Northern and Central Asia, until it had reached down over the
Himalayas into India. It was very curious.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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