=La Paz.= Bolivia unhappily has no seaport, but lake and river ports are better than none; of these she has several. Nevertheless La Paz is the chief port of entry with the principal Custom House, the terminus of the three railways leading from the Pacific. RAILWAYS =Route from Mollendo.= In 1903 not a single railway reached La Paz, but not long after, the road, which then left one on the great plateau, arrived at the edge of the _alto_, whence by electric power the cars are brought down the steep walls of the cañon to the picturesque city. This route is the conclusion of the road from Mollendo, by all means the most desirable for the traveler coming from the north. The inconvenience suffered by many persons going from the coast directly to the high table-land, and the real danger to those with weak hearts, may be lessened or entirely obviated by pausing two or three days in the pleasant city of Arequipa. Even the compulsory stay of a single night may render the journey to Puno innocuous to the person in good condition. Having crossed the divide, altitude 14,688 feet, one arrives at nightfall at Puno, on the shore of Lake Titicaca, altitude 12,500 feet. The boat is there taken for the night journey of 130 miles to Guaqui, the Bolivian port at the south end of the lake, a 14 hour sail which no one should miss; for in the morning an inspiring vision may be had, hardly equalled on the globe, of the magnificent Cordillera Real, a hundred mile stretch of rugged snowclad peaks from Illampu to Illimani with Huaina Potosí halfway. A splendid view of Illampu is had on the left, during the three hours’ ride, 56 miles, over the almost desert plateau, and after passing its edge a matchless view of the cañon, the city, 1000 feet below, and Illimani towering far above.