Ireland -- Description and travel; Ireland -- Social conditions
Portrush is a delicious sea-side place, at the mouth of Lough Foyle,
on the most wonderful coast in Europe; it is seated on the edge of the
Antrim table-land, which is of volcanic origin: probably a dependency
of Scotland geologically, rather than belonging properly to Ireland, to
which it came and welded itself, at some unknown epoch. The traveller
has there the agreeable surprise of a delightful hotel—one should say a
perfect one—a regular miracle of comfort; and the still greater surprise
of seeing there the only electric railway actually working on this
planet. That bijou-line is used to take the visitors to the wonder of
Ireland, the Giant’s Causeway. It ascends on the sea-side an acclivity
of about three to four hundred yards, and runs over a length of five
miles up to Bushmills, where the generators of electricity are set to
work by hydraulic power. Nothing is so fresh or unexpected as that
drive in open carriages. The train ascends lustily along the electric
guiding-rail in the midst of a well-nourished fire of sparkles called
to life by its iron hoofs. As it rises higher the prospect gets wider
and wider, and you get a view of the Scotch mountains only fifteen miles
distant, while the most extraordinary basaltic formations are following
one another under your eye along the coast.
* * * * *
The Antrim table-land, so geologists tell us, was formed by a layer of
lava three or four hundred yards high, spread over the chalky bottom of
the sea. Of the volcanoes which vomited that lava no vestige is to be
seen to-day. The glaciers, tumbling down from the neighbouring heights,
have cleared them away. In times remote, that table-land extended across
to Scotland, to which it united Ireland as by a sort of prodigious bridge
of lava. But the unremitting, incessant, work of the waters has eaten
away by degrees the cretaceous masses which supported it. The arches
of the bridge were then dislocated and precipitated into the ocean.
Only some traces of it on both sides are left standing now: the Giant’s
Causeway in Ireland, the point of Cantire in Scotland, and between the
two, the little Island of Rathlin.
Along the coast of Antrim the waves continuing their destructive work, go
on gnawing the foundations of the cliffs, which they dig and carve like
lacework. Numberless grottoes, rocky needles shaped into the likeness of
steeples, deep chasms at the bottom of which the foaming waters are for
ever contending, are the result of that perennial work.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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