Ireland Under Coercion: The Diary of an American (1 of 2): (2nd ed.) (1888)Hurlbert, William Henry
History
Ireland Under Coercion: The Diary of an American (1 of 2): (2nd ed.) (1888)
Hurlbert, William Henry
Ireland -- Description and travel; Ireland -- Politics and government -- 1837-1901
There is a legend that Rinuccini wanted to buy and carry away one of the
great windows of this Cathedral, in which mass was celebrated while he
was here. The Cathedral contains some interesting monuments of the
Butlers, and there are many curiously channelled burial slabs in the
floor, like some still preserved in the ruins of Abbeyleix. Lord de
Vesci pointed out to me several tombs of families of English origin once
powerful here, but now sunk into the farmer class. On one of these I
think it was that we saw a remarkably well-preserved effigy of a lady,
wearing a plaited cap under a "Waterford cloak"--one of the neatest
varieties of the Irish women's cloak--garment so picturesque at once,
and so well adapted to the climate, that I am not surprised to learn
from Lady de Vesci that it is very fast going out of fashion. This
morning before we left Abbeyleix she showed us two such cloaks, types
from two different provinces, each in its way admirable. Put on and worn
about the room by two singularly stately and graceful ladies, they fell
into lines and folds which recalled the most exquisitely beautiful
statuettes of Tanagra; and all allowance made for the glamour lent them
by these two "daughters of the gods, divinely tall," it was impossible
not to see that no woman could possibly look commonplace and
insignificant in such a garment. Yet Lady de Vesci says that more than
once she has known peasant women, to whom such cloaks had been
presented, cut off the characteristic and useful hood, and trim the
mangled robe with tawdry lace. So it is all over the world! Women who
are models for an artist when they wear some garment indigenous to their
country and appropriate to its conditions, prefer to make guys of
themselves in grotesque travesties of the latest "styles" from London
and Paris and Dublin!
Kilkenny boasts that its streets are paved with marble. It is in fact
limestone, but none the worse for that. The snow did not improve them.
So without going on a pilgrimage to the Kilkenny College, at which
Swift, Congreve, and Farquhar,--an odd concatenation of
celebrities--were more or less educated, we made our way to the Imperial
Hotel for luncheon. The waiter was a delightful Celt. Upon my asking him
whether the house could furnish anything distantly resembling good Irish
whisky, he produced a bottle of alleged Scotch whisky, which he put upon
the table with a decisive air, exclaiming, "And this, yer honour, is the
most excellent whisky in the whole world, or I'm not an Irishman!"
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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