Ireland Under Coercion: The Diary of an American (2 of 2): (2nd ed.) (1888)Hurlbert, William Henry
History
Ireland Under Coercion: The Diary of an American (2 of 2): (2nd ed.) (1888)
Hurlbert, William Henry
Ireland -- Description and travel; Ireland -- Politics and government -- 1837-1901
The gross rental is a little over £2000 a year of which one-half goes to
Mr. Brooke's mother. Mr. Brooke himself is a wealthy man, at the head of
the most important firm of wine-merchants in Ireland, and he has
repeatedly spent on the property more than he took out of it.
The house of Sir Thomas Esmonde, M.P., was pointed out to me from the
road. "Sir Thomas is to marry an heiress, sir, isn't he, in America?"
asked an ingenuous inquirer. I avowed my ignorance on this point. "Oh,
well, they say so, for anyway the old house is being put in order for
now the first time in forty years."
We reached Arklow in time for luncheon, and drove to the large police
barracks there. These were formerly the quarters of the troops. Arklow
was one of the earliest settlements of the Anglo-Normans in Ireland
under Henry II., and once rejoiced in a castle and a monastery both now
obliterated; though a bit of an old tower here is said to have been
erected in his time. The town lives by fishing, and by shipping copper
and lead ore to South Wales. The houses are rather neat and well kept;
but the street was full of little ragged, merry mendicants.
We went into a small branch of the Bank of Ireland, and asked where we
should find the hotel. We were very civilly directed to "The Register's
Office over the way." This seemed odd enough. But reaching it we were
further puzzled to see the sign over the doorway of a "coach-builder"!
However, we rang the bell, and presently a maid-servant appeared, who
assured us that this was really the hotel, and that we could have
"whatever we liked" for luncheon. We liked what we found we could
get--chops, potatoes, and parsnips; and without too much delay these
were neatly served to us in a most remarkable room, ablaze with mural
ornaments and decorations, upon which every imaginable pigment of the
modern palette seemed to have been lavished, from a Nile-water-green
dado to a scarlet and silver frieze. There were five times as many
potatoes served to us as two men could possibly eat, and not one of them
was half-boiled. But otherwise the meal was well enough, and the service
excellent. Beer could be got for us, but the house had no licence, Lord
Carysfort, the owner of the property, thinking, so our hostess said,
that "there were too many licences in the town already." Lord Carysfort
is probably right; but it is not every owner of a house, or even of a
lease in Ireland, I fear, who would take such a view and act on it to
the detriment of his own property.
Dr. Dillon lives in the main square of Arklow in a very neat house. He
was absent at a funeral in the handsome Catholic church near by when we
called, but we were shown into his study, and he presently came in.
His study was that of a man of letters and of politics. Blue-books and
statistical works lay about in all directions, and on the table were the
March numbers of the _Nineteenth Century_, and the _Contemporary
Review_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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