Ireland Under Coercion: The Diary of an American (2 of 2): (2nd ed.) (1888)Hurlbert, William Henry
History
Ireland Under Coercion: The Diary of an American (2 of 2): (2nd ed.) (1888)
Hurlbert, William Henry
Ireland -- Description and travel; Ireland -- Politics and government -- 1837-1901
From Moira to Belfast the scenery along the line grows in beauty
steadily. If Belfast were not the busiest and most thriving city in
Ireland, it would still be well worth a visit for the picturesque charms
of its situation and of the scenery which surrounds it. At some future
day I hope to get a better notion both of its activity and of its
attractions than it would be possible for me to attempt to get in this
flying visit, made solely to take the touch of the atmosphere of the
place at this season of the year; for we are on the very eve of the
battle month of the Boyne.
Mr. Cameron, the Town Inspector of the Royal Irish Constabulary, met me
at the station, in accordance with a promise which he kindly made when I
saw him several weeks ago at Cork; and this morning he took me all over
the city. It is very well laid out, in the new quarters especially, with
broad avenues and spacious squares. In fact, as a local wag said to me
to-day at the Ulster Club, "You can drive through Belfast without once
going into a street"--most of the thoroughfares which are not called
"avenues" or "places" being known as "roads." It is, of course, an
essentially modern city. When Boate made his survey of Ireland two
centuries ago, Belfast was so small a place that he took small note of
it, though it had been incorporated by James I. in 1613 in favour of the
Chichester family, still represented here. In a very careful _Tour in
Ireland_, published at Dublin in 1780, the author says of Belfast, "I
could not help remarking the great number of Scots who reside in this
place, and who carry on a good trade with Scotland." It seems then to
have had a population of less than 20,000 souls, as it only touched that
number at the beginning of this century. It has since then advanced by
"leaps and bounds," after an almost American fashion, till it has now
become the second, and bids fair at no distant day to become the first,
city in Ireland. Few of the American cities which are its true
contemporaries can be compared with Belfast in beauty. The quarter in
which my host lives was reclaimed from the sea marshes not quite so long
ago, I believe, as was the Commonwealth Avenue quarter of Boston, and
though it does not show so many costly private houses perhaps as that
quarter of the New England capital, its "roads" and "avenues" are on the
whole better built, and there is no public building in Boston so
imposing as the Queen's College, with its Tudor front six hundred feet
in length, and its graceful central tower. The Botanic Gardens near by
are much prettier and much better equipped for the pleasure and
instruction of the people than any public gardens in either Boston or
New York. These American comparisons make themselves, all the conditions
of Belfast being rather of the New World than of the Old. The oldest
building pointed out to me to-day is the whilom mansion of the Marquis
of Donegal, now used as offices, and still called the Castle.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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