Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
General
Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
We went straight to the little old hotel of the Sybilla, which looks
exactly the same as in our day, and ordered breakfast. We were quite
ready for it, having had our "petit déjeuner" at 7.30. The padrone said
he wanted half an hour to prepare it, as the regular table-d'hôte was
over. Of course the railway tourists got out much quicker than we did
and we met them all over the place, when we went out to see the famous
Temple of Vesta. It is perched on the top of the cliff, looking as if it
would take very little to precipitate it into the mass of rushing,
leaping water tumbling itself over the rocks far below at our feet. We
had a very good breakfast, capital trout for which Tivoli is famous, and
a most talkative landlord who came to superintend the meal and give us
any information we wanted. He said we must have donkeys to make the
"giro," which would take us about two hours, and we could finish at the
Villa d'Este, where the carriage would come and get us.
We walked about a little in the town after breakfast through narrow,
dirty streets with curious old bits of architecture, and into the
church, or cathedral as they grandly call it, of San Francesco; but
there was really nothing to see; and at two we started for our tournée
to the grottoes of Neptune and the Sirena. We all walked at first, two
donkeys with the usual pretty little black-eyed boys at their heads
following (W. of course wouldn't have a donkey but took a cane which the
padrone of the Sybilla strongly recommended as the steps going down to
the grotto were steep and slippery). I wondered how the donkeys would
get on, but made no remarks as I knew I could always get off. We walked
through the little town under a nice old arch and up a path which was
pleasant enough at first, but when we wound round the side of the hill
Gert and I were glad to mount our beasts as the sun was very hot and
there wasn't an atom of shade. It was a beautiful excursion, always
something to see--ruins of old castles, temples, gateways--so much
really that one couldn't take in details. From certain "points de vue"
the Temple of Vesta seemed almost standing on air--one lost the cliff,
which disappeared in a sort of mist. As soon as we began to go down the
noise of the rushing water was quite overpowering; we couldn't hear
ourselves speak, and the glimpses we had of the quantities of little
falls leaping over big rocks and stones were quite enchanting.
Our little donkeys were perfectly sure-footed and the path good though
steep. We dismounted before getting quite down to the grottoes and the
steps certainly were rough and slippery. The guide took charge of Gert,
and I followed in W.'s wake very carefully. It was icy cold when we got
all the way down. I am generally impervious to that sort of thing, but I
felt the cold strike me and didn't stay long. The chill passed entirely
as soon as we came out and began the ascent, leaving the dark, deep pool
behind us.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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