Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
General
Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
The country we passed through to-day looked green and smiling, but their
idea of work is still primitive, even in Northern Italy. Wherever we
passed the people in the fields all stopped and looked at the
train--many came running up the bank. If they do that for every train
they must lose a considerable amount of time. We were very sorry when
our companions departed, but at every station almost Minghetti met
friends, and it was evident that he had his head full of politics. It is
a long time since I have met any one so interesting. It is such a quick
intelligence and he touches every subject so lightly, apparently, only
one feels he knows all about it.
We made a fair stop at the Bologna station and had a very good
breakfast. It recalled so vividly old times and our first journeys to
Rome. Even the buffet looked exactly the same. I could have sworn there
was the same "fricandeau de veau." The buffet was crowded--it seems
there were a lot of Indian officers arriving with their families from
Brindisi, with dark turbaned servants and ayahs always in white. However
the Indian nurses didn't look so miserable as they used to in winter
when we first made the journey down. They were rather bewildered all the
same in such a jostling, hurrying crowd. It is funny to see how they
cling to their charges, holding the babies tight with one hand and
guiding one or two others half hidden in their long white draperies,
with the other. I am sure they are excellent, faithful nurses.
Our last days in Florence were very full. Tuesday was the day of the
races--bright, beautiful weather--and we drove out to see the retour,
stationing ourselves at the entrance of the Cascine until 7 o'clock.
There was not much to see in the way of equipages--nothing like the
Roman turn-outs--but there were some pretty women. The Comtesse
Mirafiori (née Larderel), I daresay you will remember the name, was
about the prettiest. Her victoria was very well appointed, handsome
horses stepping perfectly; and she looked a picture, all in white with a
big hat turned up with dark blue and long blue and yellow feathers. I
think a woman never looks better than in a victoria--it shows off the
dress and figure so well. Lottie, too, looked very well, but she passed
so quickly I couldn't see what she had on. I had an impression of white
with some pink in her hat. Almost all the women were in white. Of course
the Lungarno was crowded--all the loungers taking the most lively
interest in the carriages; and when there was a stop criticising
freely--but I must say with their natural Italian politeness, confining
themselves to expressions of admiration more or less pronounced--never
anything disagreeable.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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