Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
General
Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
It has been pouring all day--straight down. I think it has stopped a
little since dinner. We didn't stay long in the reading-room as W. is
fairly launched in his coins now and puts his notes in order in the
evening. I prowled this morning with Madame Hubert. Before breakfast we
went to the Brera. It was almost empty but we found a nice guide, a
youngish man, speaking such beautiful Italian that it was a pleasure to
hear him, and well up on all the pictures. There are beautiful things,
certainly. I was so glad to see some old friends. I was always so fond
of the "Amanti Veneziani" of Paris Bordone. The "sposo" looks so young
and straight and proud, and the girl's attitude is charming, her
brown-gold head drooping on her lover's shoulder as she holds out her
hand for the ring he is putting on her finger. Even the inferior
pictures of the Paul Veronese school are fine--there is such an
intensity of colour. The whole room seemed filled with light and warmth.
I think I like the backgrounds and accessories almost as much as the
figures. The draperies are so wonderfully done, one can almost touch the
gorgeous stuffs, heavy with gold and silver embroidery; and there are
one or two high-backed, carved arm-chairs which are a marvel. The
beautiful fair women with strings of pearls in their golden hair, and
white satin dresses, sitting up straight and slight in the dark wooden
chairs, are fascinating; and there are quantities, for Paul Veronese and
all his pupils have always so many people in their pictures.
We saw of course the "Sposalizia" in a small room quite by itself. The
Virgin is a beautifully slight ethereal figure with the marvellous pure
face that all Raphael's Madonnas have; but the St. Joseph looks younger
than in most other pictures. Our guide was most enthusiastic over the
picture. It was a treat to hear him say--"morbidezza" and "dolcissimo."
We were there about an hour and a half, and that was quite long enough.
One's eyes get tired. We saw splendid portraits of princes and warriors
as we passed through the rooms--Moretto, Leonardo da Vinci and others.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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