Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
General
Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
We waited until 4.30 hoping the rain would stop. It didn't, but the
clouds lightened a little and we thought we would go and see the Duomo.
I had forgotten how beautiful it is--those great wide aisles quite
bare--no chairs, nothing to break the line until quite at the high
altar, and the light from the old glass windows coming from so high over
our heads it seemed straight from heaven. We sat some little time in one
of the side chapels. It looked vast and mysterious--one had such an
impression of space and height. Various guides came up and supposed we
would not care to go up on the roof on such an afternoon. We told them
we would come back the next day if it was fine. They looked so
disappointed at having nothing that we finally went down into the crypt
to see the tomb and body of San Carlo Borromeo. We had both seen it
before but I didn't mind reviving my souvenirs. We had tapers of course
as it was quite dark, but we saw quite well the coloured marbles and
precious stones of the little chapel--also the body of the Saint,
marvellously preserved. It looked very small--hardly the size of a grown
man. The guide of course wanted to show us all sorts of relics, and the
trésor of the Cathedral, but we preferred going up again to the church,
and wandered about looking at the marble tombs and monuments--there are
not many, and they are quite lost in the enormous building. Quite down
at the bottom of the church, near the door under a baldaquin, is a font
in porphyry, said to be the sarcophagus of some saint. The church looked
immense as it grew darker and the light gradually faded, leaving deep
shadows everywhere. When we turned back, just as we were going out, to
have a last glimpse, the high altar seemed far away, and the tall
candles looked like twinkling lights seen through a mist or veil.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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