Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
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Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
I see I shall always write at night. After coffee and half an hour in
the reading-room (I always go and have a look at the papers while W.
smokes) we come upstairs. W. plunges at once into his notes, and I read
and write. It has been lovely to-day and we have had a nice afternoon.
W. came home to breakfast at 1, as he wanted to see the Brera and
"Cenacolo" once again; and it is of course too late when we start for
our afternoon drive at 4.30. We walked to the Brera--it isn't far--and
were there a long time. We made a long stop in the vestibule looking at
the Luini frescoes--all scenes in the Virgin's life--Madonnas, angels,
saints--quantities of figures, and colours and accessories of all
kinds--wonderful trees and buildings and clouds with angels and seraphim
rising out of them. They must have had marvellous imaginations, those
early Italian painters. They never saw anything to suggest such pictures
to them, and of course never read anything--there were no books to
read--merely written manuscripts difficult enough for scholars to
decipher. All the wonderful scenes--Nativity, Coronation, etc.--evoked
out of their own brains. I think I like the Annunciation the best of
all the scenes of the Virgin's life. There is a beautiful one in the
Pitti--I forget now by whom--the Virgin just risen from her chair with a
half-dazed, half-triumphant look, and the angel kneeling before her with
his lily. I like some of the German ones, too, but they are much more
elaborate--the Virgin often standing in a wide arch--a portico--more
figures in the background--and the Virgin herself quite a German
girl--not at all the lovely, spiritual head of the Italian masters.
We walked through all the rooms. The Venetian pictures (Paul Veronese
school) looked beautiful. W., too, was struck with the splendid
colouring. Some of the names quite unknown, and if one looked too
closely there were perhaps faults of drawing and exaggeration of colour,
but the effect was extraordinary. He admired the men's portraits
excessively, by Titian, Tintoretto, Moroni, etc. They are very
fine--sometimes a soldier with keen, hard eyes, clad in complete
armour--often a noble, some grand seigneur of his time, in black velvet
and fur with jewelled cap and chain, a fine patrician head and
thoughtful face. We didn't see the young guide who went about with me--I
was rather sorry--I wanted W. to hear his beautiful Italian.
We stayed so long looking at everything (Luini's pictures are most
interesting, too--he must have had an extraordinary capacity for work)
that we had just time to get a cab and drive over to Santa Maria delle
Grazie to see the "Cenacolo" as it shuts at 4. The Saviour's head, St.
John, and some of the other faces are beautiful--but it is so faded (and
on the other hand has been touched up a little) that I was disappointed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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