Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
General
Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
While we were looking at the relics a French pèlerinage came up--quite a
long procession; many very nice-looking women. They were all dressed in
black, and most of them wore bonnets--some few had black veils--priests
of course, and a fair amount of men of all ages. They passed in
procession up the aisle, chanting a psalm, which sounded very well, full
and solemn. One or two stragglers, two young men and a woman stopped to
see what we were looking at, and we had a little talk. They had just
arrived over the St. Gothard, hadn't much time, and were very keen to
see everything. They said it was very cold crossing the mountain--the
heavy rain we had had at Milan had been deep snow on the pass. We went
to look at Queen Theodolinda's tomb in one of the side chapels, and then
started for the "Casa Reale" as they call the Royal Villa. It has no
pretensions to architecture; is a large square building with long,
rambling wings. We could only see the great hall and some of the
reception rooms downstairs, as they were painting and cleaning upstairs.
The rooms had no particular style--large, high ceilings, great windows
looking on the park; just what one sees in all Royal Palaces. All the
furniture was covered with housses--the gardien took one off an
arm-chair to show us the red velvet. The lustres also were covered--the
mirrors were handsome. The park is delightful--quantities of trees of
all kinds, lovely shady walks, and bosquets. There seemed to be a great
deal of game--deer and pheasants walking about quite tame and
undisturbed in all directions. The communs and dépendances are enormous,
quite a little colony of houses scattered about--régisseur, head-keeper,
head-gardener, all with good gardens.
We had a nice talk with a half-gardener half-guide who went about with
us and showed us all the beauties. The place is low--I should think
would be very warm in summer, for even to-day the shade was pleasant and
the low afternoon sun in our faces rather trying. There were splendid
views every now and then of the distant Alps. The gardener, like every
one else who has ever been thrown with her, apparently adored the
Queen--said she knew all about the place, and trees, and flowers, and
was so beloved in the town. I remember Peruzzi telling me how fond she
was of Monza--happier there than anywhere. They certainly love their
"Margherita di Savoia." There are pictures of her everywhere, and some
one told us that all the girls in Monza are called Margherita.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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