Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
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Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
We are really leaving to-morrow morning, get to Turin for dinner. As we
telegraphed yesterday the address I hope we shall find letters. It has
been lovely again all day, so our last impressions are good. I have
quite forgotten the rain and dark of the other day. The padrone has just
informed us, with much pride, that the Crown Princess of Germany arrives
to-night in this hotel from Vienna. I wish she had come yesterday--I
should have liked to see her again. I have been out shopping this
morning, but it is difficult; there is not much to buy, at least not in
the nice big shops of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, and I am a little
afraid of the antiquities--I know so little about bric-à-brac (au fond
like modern things just as well, but other people don't, and would much
rather have a really ugly, queer-shaped old cup or glass than the most
graceful modern creation).
The padrone gave me the address of a good antiquity shop, and said I
could be perfectly sure in taking anything they said was old, and I need
only say he had recommended me to go there. I found beautiful things,
but all large, cassoni, high-backed, carved arm-chairs and Venetian
mirrors, but the prices were awful and the things much too big. I wanted
something smaller that I could put into my trunk. We went back to the
Piazza dei Mercanti and, after looking about at many of the little
shops, I did find some rather curious silver spoons and boxes. The
spoons have quaint, long handles ending in a head, not apostles, but
soldiers and women with veils and crowns. The boxes are most elaborately
carved--on the cover of one there are 21 figures--a sort of vintage with
bunches of grapes. As usual there were many people lounging about and
stopping at all the shops--some of them wildly interested in my
purchases. One funny little old man with a yellow face and bright eyes
was apparently much pleased with the box I chose--nodded and smiled at
me, saying: "Una bellezza questa" (this is a beauty). On our way back we
went into the great court-yard of the Ospedale Maggiore, an enormous
brick building with fine façade and high pointed windows; the walls
covered with medallions and ornaments in terra-cotta. I believe it is
one of the largest hospitals that exist and certainly once inside those
great courts one would feel absolutely cut off from the outside world.
There seemed to be gardens and good trees at the back--we saw the green
through the cloisters, and there was a fine loggia overlooking the
court. It was as sleepy and quiet as possible to-day--no sign of life,
no concierge nor porter, nor patient of any kind visible. If we had had
time and wanted to go over the hospital I don't know whom we could have
applied to.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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