Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
General
Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
The hotel is on the great Place du Château, faces the Palazzo Madama.
They have given us a nice apartment, with windows and a good balcony
looking out on the Place. We went upstairs immediately to inspect the
rooms--the padrone himself conducting us. There were flowers on the
table, nice lounging chairs on the balcony. It looked charming. He
wanted to send us tea or coffee--but we really couldn't take anything as
it wasn't more than two hours since we had had a very fair little goûter
at Novara. We said we would dine in the restaurant about 8. He was
rather anxious we should have our dinner in the anteroom which was large
and light--often used for a dining-room--but we told him we much
preferred dining downstairs and seeing the people.
We brushed off a little dust--it wasn't a very dirty journey--and
started off for a stroll across the Piazza Castello. It is a fine large
square, high buildings all around it, and the great mediæval pile
Palazzo Madama facing us as we went in. It looked more like a fortress
than a palace, but there is a fine double staircase and façade with
marble columns and statues--white, I suppose, originally, but now rather
mellowed with years and exposure and taking a soft pink tint in the
waning sunlight. It was inhabited by the mother of one of the kings,
"Madama Reale," hence its name. There is a monument to the Sardinian
army in front of the palace with very elaborate bas-reliefs. They told
us there was nothing to see inside, so we merely walked all around it,
and then went over to the Palazzo Reale, which is a large brick
building, with no pretensions to architecture. They say it is very
handsome inside--large, high rooms, very luxuriously furnished. Somehow
or other luxuriously furnished apartments don't seem to go with Princes
of the House of Savoy. One can't imagine them reclining in ladies'
boudoirs on satin cushions, with silk and damask hangings. They seem
always to have been simple, hardy soldiers, more at home on a
battle-field than in a drawing-room. We asked at the entrance if the Duc
d'Aoste was here. He told us when he was in Paris that if ever we came
to Turin we must let him know--that he always received twice a week in
the evening when he was at home and that he would be delighted to see us
(I had put an evening dress in my trunk in case we should be invited
anywhere)--however he isn't here, away in the country for three or four
days on some inspection--so we wrote ourselves down in the book that he
might see that we intended to pay our respects.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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