Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
General
Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
We started about 4 for La Superga in a nice light basket carriage and
pair of strong little horses. It was rather interesting driving all
through the town, which is comparatively small--one is soon out of it.
The streets are narrow, once one is out of the great thoroughfares, with
high houses on each side. Every now and then an interesting cornice with
a curious round tower and some funny old-fashioned houses with high
pointed roofs and iron balconies running quite around the house, but on
the whole it is much less picturesque and colder looking than the other
Italian cities. The road was not very animated--few vehicles of any
description, a few fiacres evidently bound for the Superga like us.
There were not many carts nor many people about. What _was_ lovely was
the crown of green hills with little chestnut groves--some of the little
woods we drove through were quite charming, with the long slanting rays
of the afternoon sun shining through the branches--just as I remember
the Galleria di Sotto at Albano--the chestnuts grow high on all the
hillsides. We had quite a stiff mount before we got to the church (but
the little horses trotted up very fairly) and a good climb after we left
the carriage. One sees the church from a long distance. It has a fine
colonnade and a high dome which lifts itself well up into the clouds. We
followed a pretty steep, winding path up to the top, quantities of wild
roses, a delicate pink, like our eglantine at home, twisting themselves
around the bushes. There is nothing particularly interesting in the
church. It is the burial place of the Kings of Savoy, and their vault is
in the crypt. The last one buried there was Charles Albert. Victor
Emmanuel is buried in the Pantheon in Rome. We found a nice old
sacristan who took us about and explained various statues to us--also
all the glories of the Casa di Savoia, winding up with an enthusiastic
eulogy of Queen Margherita--but never as Queen of Italy, "nostra
Principessa." She has certainly made herself a splendid place in the
hearts of the people--they all adore her. We climbed up to the roof, and
what a view we had, all Turin at our feet with its domes and high,
pointed roofs, standing in the midst of the green plain dotted all over
with villas, farms, gardens, little groves of chestnuts, the river
meandering along through the meadows carpeted with flowers, and looking
in the sunlight like a gold zig-zag with its numerous turns--always the
beautiful crown of hills, and in the background the snow peaks of the
Alps. It was very clear--they looked so near, as if one could throw a
stone across. Our old man pointed out all the well-known peaks--Monte
Rosa, Mont Cenis, and many others whose names I didn't catch. He said he
had rarely seen the whole chain so distinct. It reminded me of the view
we had of the Bernese Oberland so many years ago--the first time we had
seen snow mountains. On arriving at Berne we were hurried out on the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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