Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
General
Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
It has been a beautiful day. Bessie and I went to the English church,
which was crowded. We could only find seats quite at the bottom of the
church, and those were chairs which had been brought in at the last
moment. We went afterward to breakfast with the Wurts in their beautiful
apartment. They had flowers everywhere (from their villa) and the rooms
looked like a garden. We were quite a party--16--and stayed there
talking and looking at everything until after three. Then we started for
a drive. I wanted to go to the Protestant Cemetery and see the little
mortuary chapel we built after father's death. Some one told me it was
utterly uncared for, going to ruin. The gates were open as we drove up,
a good many carriages waiting, and plenty of people walking about
inside. It is a lovely, peaceful spot, so green and still, many fine
trees, quantities of camellias, and violets on almost every grave. The
chapel stood just as I remembered it--in the middle of the cemetery. It
is in perfectly good order, and had evidently been used quite lately as
there were wooden trestles to support a coffin, and bits of wreaths and
stalks of flowers lying about. The two inscriptions, Latin on one side
and English on the other, are both quite well preserved and legible. I
wanted very much to see a guardian or director of the cemetery, but
there was only a woman at the gate, who knew nothing, hadn't been there
very long, in fact she knew nothing about the chapel, and showed me a
room opening into the old cemetery (where Keats is buried) which looked
more like a lumber room than anything else. There are some interesting
monuments, one to Mrs. Story, quite simple and beautiful, an angel
kneeling with folded wings. It was done by her husband, the last thing
he did, his son told me. The old cemetery looks quite deserted, close
under the great pyramid of Caius Cestius, the few graves quite uncared
for, a general air of neglect, a fitting resting-place for the poor
young poet whose profound discouragement will go down to posterity.
Every one goes to the grave and reads the melancholy inscription, "Here
lies one whose name was writ in water."
It was such a lovely afternoon that we drove on to Tre Fontane. There,
too, there were people. The churches were open, but there was no service
going on; however the place has always a great charm. The tops of the
eucalyptus trees were swaying in a little breeze, and the smell was
stronger and more aromatic than when we were there the other day.
We have had a quiet evening, all of us, children and grown-ups,
Protestants and Catholics, singing the English Easter Hymns. Josephine,
who is a very strict Catholic, loves the English hymns, and certainly we
can all sing "Christ the Lord is Risen To-day," for Easter is a fête for
all the world. I am sorry I didn't go to St. Peter's this morning. I
don't know that there was any special ceremony, but for the sake of old
times I should have liked to have had my Easter and Hallelujah there.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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