walk on Good Friday, 90; service at St. Peter's, 90; service at St. John Lateran, 91; note from the Quirinal, 92; audience with the Queen of Italy, 92-95; meets the Prince of Naples, 94; breakfast with the Noailles, 95; sees Farnese Palace, 95; visits the Bakers' tomb, 96; dines with the Cairoli, 96-98; day at the races, 98-99; protests against "valise" regulations, 98; attends Teano ball, 99; visits the Trevi Fountain, 100; tea with the Duke di Ripaldo, 100; dines at German Embassy and meets German Crown Princess, 102-105; attends reception at the Noailles', 107; musical evening at the Schuylers', 108; dinner with the Wimpffens, 108; meets Crown Princess again, 109; excursion to Frascati, 110; fails to visit Tusculum, 112, 113; trip to the Vatican, 114-115; ball at the British Embassy, 116; dinner at Villa Medici, 117; recollections of 1867, 119; goes to Naples, 119; sees Vesuvius in eruption, 123; ascends Mt. Vesuvius, 124-125; a long wait at an inn, 126-130; fête at the Stella del Mare, 135; the nun, 135; sail to Capri, 136; Capri, 137; a Capri fisher-girl, 139-141; dinner at Mr. Hooker's, 142; visit to the Doria Gallery, 143; dines at the Spanish Embassy, 144; musicale at Princess Bandini's, 146; hears Lohengrin in Italian, 148; drives to Albano, 149-153; last turn in the Vatican, 154; receives the Pope's photograph, 155; drives to the Villa Madama, 157; farewell dinner at the Noailles', 159; a day at Tivoli, 161-165; a lonely road, 167; last drive in the country, 169; walk with Del Monte, 173; arrives at Milan, 180; attends the races, 183; holds small reception, 184; a drive about Milan, 187; a visit to the Brera, 188-189; visit to the Duomo, 190; a second visit to the Brera, 192-193; describes the Piazza dei Mercanti, 201, 202; an afternoon at Monza, 204-206; leaves Milan and arrives at Turin, 211; trip to La Superga, 219-221; returns to Paris, 225; Rome revisited, 229; attends a ball at the Storys', 239; dinner at Count Vitali's, 240; received by the Queen, 240-242; attends the court ball, 243-244; in the garden of the Vatican, 247; music at the French Embassy, 248; audience with the Pope, 249-251; audience with Cardinal Mery del Val, 251-252; audience with Queen Margherita, 253; breakfast with Princess d'Arsoli, 254; at the Pope's audience, 255-256; an expedition to the Catacombs, 257; dines with Princess Poggio-Suasa, 259; automobile excursion with Countess de Bertheny, 262-265; trip to Tusculum, 267; special guards, 269; fête at the Massimo Palace, 271; fête given by Marchesa Rudini, 272; dines with Malcolm Kahn, 275; dines with the Ruspolis, 276; Holy Thursday at St. Peter's, 281; visits her father's grave, 285; a musical evening at the Palace, 287-288; excursion to San Gregorio, 289-291; attends ceremony at St. Peter's, the 13th anniversary of Pope Gregorio