Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
General
Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
I wish they would settle in Rome instead of Florence, the life is so
much more interesting here. Florence is charming, but asleep--here there
is life, and the contrast between the old patrician city full of
old-world memories and prejudices, and the political, financial
atmosphere of this 19th century is most striking. W. has decided to go
to Naples for four or five days. I shan't go with him. He will be all
day in the museums, as there is a great deal to see, and I should bore
myself sitting alone in the hotel. If we could stay long enough to make
some excursions--see Sorrento, Capri, and Ischia, I would not hesitate,
I should love to see it all again. They say Vesuvius is giving signs of
a disturbance.
As we were talking about Capri and Vesuvius I told them my experience
there so many years ago, and both gentlemen told me I ought to write it
while it was still fresh in my memory, so here it is and you will send
the letter to the family in America.
We went to Naples in October, 1867. Father died at Frascati the 27th of
September, and we all needed change after the long nursing and watching.
All our friends in Rome were most anxious we should get off; affairs
were rapidly coming to a crisis in Italy and it was evident that the
days of the temporal power of the Pope were numbered. At any moment the
Italians under Garibaldi might appear at the gates of Rome and it was
not considered safe for women and foreigners to remain there. No one
thought or talked of anything else, and though we were absorbed by
father's illness and the numerous duties that a sick room entails we
were quite as excited as all our friends. Of course we heard the two
sides--the liberals who had high hopes of liberty and "Italia Unita" and
the "papalini" who were convinced that the Italians would only enter
Rome over the bodies of the faithful. Our young imaginations pictured
anything, everything; the Garibaldians penetrating quite to the Court of
the Vatican, the Swiss Guard, Charette and his Zouaves, massacred;
priests flying in every direction pursued by a crowd of soldiers and
infuriated populace. Good old Dr. Valery, who knew his countrymen better
than we did, assured us there was no danger. When resistance was
perfectly useless it would be wicked to shed blood, and Pio Nono himself
would be the first to advise submission to the inevitable. We couldn't
believe that such a tremendous change and uprooting of the traditions of
centuries could be accomplished so quietly. We stayed two days only in
Rome after leaving Frascati. We laid father at rest in the little
English churchyard just by the San Paolo gate. There was a mortuary
chapel where he could stay till he was taken home to the old family
churchyard at Jamaica where Grandpapa King and a long line of children
and grandchildren are buried. We had to see about our mourning and were
finally hustled out of Rome the third day, Mr. Hooker (the American
banker), our great friend, fairly standing over us while the trunks were
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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