Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
General
Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
him and evidently wanting something which they couldn't make him
understand. He was telling them to have patience, that there was an
"Inglese" upstairs who would talk to them. They were so astounded when
they saw me that they were speechless--il y avait de quoi--seeing a
girl established there in rather a dishevelled condition, her hat off,
wet cloak hanging over the chair, and entirely alone with those
"Neapolitan brigands"--but one man ventured to ask timidly "did I speak
English." Oh yes--Italian, too--what could I do for them. They explained
that the lady was tired, cold and wet (she looked miserable, poor thing)
and wanted a hot drink--brandy, anything she could get. She didn't look
as if she could go on, but she said she would be all right if she could
have something hot, and that nothing would induce her to give up the
excursion, having come so far; so a fresh piece of wood, or peat rather
of some kind (it looked quite black), was put on the fire, also water in
a most primitive pot. I suggested that she should take off her cloak and
let it dry a little. The men brought in some more chairs and then the
new comers began to wonder who I was and what I was doing there alone at
that hour of the night. They were Americans, told me their name, but I
have forgotten it, it is so long ago. I told them my experience--that I
was absolutely unnerved, in a dead funk, and would have done anything
rather than go on toward that horrible crater. They couldn't understand
that I wasn't much more afraid of spending two hours in that lonely
little house in such company, and begged me to try again--there was
really no danger, people were going up all the time, etc. The older man
was very earnest--said they couldn't leave a compatriot in such
straits--he would give me his donkey if another one couldn't be procured
and would walk--how could my brother have permitted me to come back
alone, etc. However I reassured him as well as I could--told them I was
perfectly accustomed to Italians and knew the language well (which was a
great help to me, I don't know what I should have done if I hadn't been
able to talk and understand them). They stayed about 20 minutes--the
lady said her drink was very nasty, but hot, and she looked better for
the rest and partial drying. She wasn't as wet as I was, the rain had
stopped when they were half-way up. I told them who I was and begged
them to say, if they met my people coming down, a gentleman and two
ladies, that they had seen me, and that I was quite dry and comfortable.
They went away most reluctantly, were half inclined to stay until the
others should come back, but the guides were anxious to be off. Even at
the last moment when they had got downstairs, the older man came back
and begged me to come with them--"I assure you, my dear young lady, you
don't know in what a dangerous position you are; if I had any authority
over you I should insist, etc." He was very nice, and left all sorts of
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