Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
General
Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
The evenings were delicious. We sat almost always on the
balcony--sometimes with a light wrap when the breeze from the sea
freshened about 9 o'clock. How beautiful it was; the sea deep blue, the
islands changing from pink to purple, and as soon as it was dark
Vesuvius sending up its pyramid of fire. It looked magnificent, but very
formidable. Almost every morning we saw a party come and bathe in the
little cove at the foot of the cliff--a pretty little boat came around
the point with a family party on board--two ladies, one man and three
children. I think they were English, their installation was so
practical. They had a small tent, camp-stools, and table, also two toy
sailboats which were a source of much pleasure and tribulation, as they
frequently got jammed in between the rocks, or caught in the thick
seaweed, and there was great excitement until they were started afresh.
We made great friends with the sister of the man at the hotel. She was a
nun, such a gentle, good face--she came every morning to get flowers
for the little chapel of Maria--Stella del Mare--which was near the
house, standing high on the hill and easily seen from the sea. One day
she seemed very busy and anxious about her flowers, so we asked what was
happening, and she said it was their great fête, and they were going to
decorate the chapel and dress the Virgin--"should we like to see it?"
The Virgin had a beautiful dress--white satin with silver embroidery and
some fine jewels which some rich forestieri had given. We were delighted
to go, and went with her to the little chapel, which looked very pretty
filled with flowers and greens, one beautiful dark, shiny leaf which
made much effect. The Virgin was removed from her niche--her vestments
brought in with great care, wrapped in soft paper, and the good sister
most reverently and happily began the toilet. The dress was very
elaborate, had been the wedding dress of an Italian Principessa, and
there were some handsome pins and rings--a gold chain on her neck with a
pearl ornament. She was rather lamenting over the cessation of
gifts--when I suddenly remembered my ring--quite a plain gold one with
the cross (pax) one always sees in Rome, which had been blessed by the
Pope. I put it on with three or four other little ornaments one day when
we had an audience. I took it off, explained to her what it was, that it
had been blessed by the Saint Père and that I should like very much to
give it to the Virgin, if she wasn't afraid of accepting anything from a
heretic. She was a little doubtful, but the fact of its having had the
Pope's blessing outweighed other considerations, and the ring was
instantly put on the Virgin's hand. She told us afterward that she had
told it to the priest, and he said she was quite right to accept it, it
might be the means of bringing me to the "true church." We grew really
quite fond of her. It was such a simple, childish faith, her whole life
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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