A night expedition is always alluring; and, besides, I had wanted to
see this particular festa for years, so I took one of the servants with
me—a broad-shouldered woman of the people, strong enough to carry me if
need be—and we set out, in a carrozzella, on a moonless night towards
nine o’clock. Very soon we had left Sorrento and its lights behind
and were climbing by steep narrow roads into the wild mountains that
cluster round Monte Sant’ Angelo. The chain of the Abruzzi that runs
out into the sea as the backbone of the Penisola rises sharp and high
from the rounded cup of the Piano di Sorrento, and, elsewhere, gives
way but little on either side to the needs of men. From the “Piano” and
the narrowing strip of level land, the cliffs facing the north plunge
clear into the water which has worn them into huge caves, each with
its tiny cove of sand, divided from one another by great outstanding
buttresses of rock. As soon as one turns inland one is lost in the
twisting defiles that scar the mountains through and through; and the
deep old roads, narrow and steep, crawl up away from the regions of
vines and olives till they reach wild, empty highlands, where only the
hardiest shrubs and flowers will grow. It is an impressive experience
to travel through these forgotten roads on a starlit night, further and
further from the sound of the sea and the haunts of men. The loneliness
is enormous, earth recedes from sight, and one is conscious of very
little except that unfathomable sky overhead, dripping and sprayed
with live silver to its furthest faintest depths, while some gorgeous
planet of our own system wheels its way between crag and crag as one
moves along. Broom and wild rosemary reach out from the wall of rock to
brush your face; a tang of bitter sweetness, clear as an exclamation,
fills your nostrils for an instant, and you know that you are passing
a clump of immortelles hidden in a cleft you cannot see. And then the
wild power of it all goes to your head; you are not a modern mortal
with a thousand anchors fastening you to the scrap heap of the workaday
world, but a new-born princess of romance, travelling through the hills
of fairyland to take possession of your unknown, enormous castle; its
thousand windows are glowing gold beyond that last peak, all lighted
up for your reception; in its deep courts and airy bowers invisible
subjects will minister to your wants. In a high tower looking south all
the great books in the world are waiting to be read; there is a terrace
a hundred feet from the ground, perfumed and trellised, where you can
watch the stars; and not a single creature in the whole world will ever
find the way to the castle!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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