Sometimes grown-up Venice is a little overpowering; one feels called
upon to note every turn and building, for fear of missing some
exquisite bit of architecture, some play of light and shade that
must be remembered. Then one is glad to get away to one or another
of the islands that lie around her, the nurseries where she played,
and dreamed of the future, a thousand years ago. The dearest of them
all to me is Torcello. We rowed out there one morning in August, when
the sea was very calm and the sun a little veiled by clouds sweeping
slowly up from the south. As we approached the island it seemed as if
its few buildings were flush with the water; so low does it lie that
the grasses and wild roses on the shore were dipping in the wash of
the ripples. Some peasants had been cutting the grass, the scent of
new-mown hay filled the air, and two great boats pushed out from some
inlet and passed between us and the land, laden ten feet high with a
cargo of fragrant green gold. As they met the breeze, up went the tawny
sails and they skimmed away over the blue water like bees heavy with
pollen. Then there was the cool rush of the turning prow, our gondola
ran in softly to the strand, some one held up an arm, and I sprang on
shore—to find myself in another age and another clime. I had to wait a
few minutes to realise what it all meant, for the “ambiente” was new to
my senses. A stretch of turf and wild roses—that explained itself—youth
and roses never need introduction—but the still white Church, so
long and low, with its slender columns like altar candles, its grave
Byzantine lines—that made me pause. It seemed as if some Saint had
turned from his prayers to ask me what I came for, and I could only
reply: “You must tell me—there is nothing here that I have a name for,
but there is something that was mine—give it back to me!”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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