There was more than mere fun in Thackeray’s tale of “The Rose and the
Ring.” When the Fairy Blackstick frowned at Prince Giglio and said,
“What you need, young man, is a little misfortune!” she asserted a most
obvious and irritating fact. But it has one delightful side to it—that
bitter draught that wise Doctor Fate insists on our taking from time
to time; the good things, even tiny little ones that we never noticed
before, do taste so wonderfully sweet afterwards!
But we were talking of shore forests. There is one, not of pine but
beeches, on the Adriatic, exactly opposite Naples on the Tyrrhenian
Sea.[13] Here a great promontory runs out towards the east, rising
into mountains which have caused the whole to be called the “Monte
Gargano,” though each peak has its own name besides. People call the
isolated district (which really belongs to the Province of Molise)
Manfredonia, from the name of its chief town, long a pet stronghold of
Suabian King Manfred, who founded and fortified it in the Thirteenth
Century. But Nature protected the Monte Gargano in another way and a
very effectual one. It was meant to be an island; on the western side
the Abruzzi shrinking back in the real mainland, and the Adriatic,
withdrawing slowly from the coast, have left a strip of land many miles
wide—flat, marshy, abominably feverish—as a kind of defensive trench to
cut off the Gargano promontory from the rest of Italy, and, as it were,
remind it for ever that by formation it does not belong to her at all,
but to the limestone plateau of Dalmatia, across the way. This vast
plain (for it stretches far and far past the promontory, towards the
south) refuses to nourish a single tree on the few feet of soil which
cover the mother-rock, but it provides such splendid food for sheep
that, since time immemorial, it has been given up to them. Alphonsus I
annexed it as a royal meadow in 1445, and imported his Spanish merinos
with such success that two hundred years later four and a half millions
of the beautiful creatures were herded by Neapolitan peasants on these
pastures. Even now, though only a scanty half million graze on them,
the sheep are lords and owners of all that ground. During the summer
they are led to the mountains, partly for their own sake, partly for
that of their keepers, who could not live in the miasma-haunted plains
in August and September. In crossing, even by train, the twenty-two
miles that separate Foggia from Manfredonia, the traveller is always
warned to close the carriage windows; but in October the sheep are all
driven back, and for weeks the three great roads that converge towards
the flats are just broad ribbons of dust, through which comes the
drumming of invisible millions of little hoofs. Along the edges of the
yellow cloud phantom figures of shepherds dressed in sheepskins take
shape at intervals and disappear again; and the dogs, dear faithful
things, fly round and herd up the stragglers and nip at the legs of
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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