Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819Hughes, John
History
Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819
Hughes, John
Provence (France) -- Description and travel; Rhône River (Switzerland and France)
pendant la Revolution," whispered our young Crispin.--"Oui, elle etoit
cachee, voila ce que tu veux dire, mon petit--." "Eh! non, pardon,
Messieurs, elle se cacha; mais il y a trois ans qu'elle se montre
encore," replied the little fellow, with the most confident gravity. I
trust that this monstrous fiction did not originate in the Ursuline
convent which he mentioned; and that the fifty-two good ladies employ
their time in more charitable and useful actions than in filling the
heads of poor children with stories so hurtful to the real interests of
religion. However credulous our young guide was, he was not mercenary,
being with difficulty persuaded to accept a franc or two for what he
styled the pleasure of having conducted us. We next visited the castle
of Tarascon, now used as the public prison, and in which 1500 English
were confined during the war. The enormous height and massiveness of
its walls, which overtop the weather-cock of the cathedral, and the
smallness of its few windows, qualify it well for this purpose; and a
greater appearance of strength and solidity is given by the solid rock
in which its foundations are embedded, and which in some places is
shaped into wall and moat. We crossed a drawbridge into a court flanked
by four round towers, and having a square keep in its centre. On the top
of one of these towers is an esplanade, from whence the view of the
course of the Rhone, and the great plain of Arles, is fine: the latter
town, which is about nine miles distant, was seen distinctly. We were
rather disappointed by the inside of the castle, which seemed chiefly to
consist of small mean rooms: perhaps the baronial hall might be the
dormitory of the prisoners, and not in a presentable state; but we saw
nothing which recalled any idea of feudal magnificence. The same
description which serves for the tower of Westburn-flat, in the Black
Dwarf, allowing for the difference of size and finish, would exactly
suit the cubical shape and high blind walls of this castle, which
probably was intended to serve similar purposes in the days of club law.
Its durability is not so remarkable as the fresh colour and sharpness of
every part of the carving, and it might pass for a modern gothic edifice
of twenty years standing, but for the solidity and frowning grandeur
which characterise it. The air of Provence appears more clear and dry
than even that of Italy, and to be more favourable to the preservation
of old buildings. Its clearness certainly is remarkable, particularly in
diminishing the effect of distance; and on Monday night, at Montpelier,
I recollect that we could plainly discover with the naked eye the stars
of the milky way, which are commonly imperceptible without a glass. I
cannot say that our route from Tarascon to St. Remy was well calculated
to show the climate of Provence in this light. The whole eleven miles
were performed in almost a perpetual storm of rain and wind, which
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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