Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819Hughes, John
History
Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819
Hughes, John
Provence (France) -- Description and travel; Rhône River (Switzerland and France)
It were to be wished on many accounts, that the French government would
keep their galley-slaves as much out of sight as they do their arsenal.
Under the ancient regime, these unfortunate creatures were only employed
in the works of the latter place, which they never left; but under the
present system, those only who are condemned for life are so treated,
and the rest are employed in different parts of the port, where they
perform the work of horses, in the most public manner, chained by the
leg in pairs. Some were drawing timber, and stone carts; and others,
rather more favoured, were laying the pavement of the pier, with a
single heavy iron link on one leg. How far economy may justify this
arrangement, or whether the exposure of incorrigible offenders may
answer as a public example, it is not for a mere visitor to determine;
but certainly a plan more adapted to deaden and sear the sense of shame
which may still remain in them, and brutalize their minds by constant
irritation, can hardly be devised. The mildness and temper with which
the guard and superintendants appear to behave is not likely to
counteract sufficiently the effect of the constant gaze of passengers, a
circumstance which to judge by one's own sensations must tend to stifle
those feelings of repentance which solitary confinement naturally
induces, and harden every manly particle of the mind into rebellion. It
is hard to reproach them with the natural effects of this rough mode of
regeneration; but I think I never saw a worse or more obdurate set of
countenances. One fellow in particular, when civilly directed by the
overseer to change the position of a stone, gave him a look of deadly
malignity when his back was turned, which reminded me strongly of the
look of Kemble in Zanga, while pronouncing the emphatic "Indeed!"
Strange as it may appear, we were informed that there were several
colonels, generals, priests, and men who could afford to spend 300
francs a day, among this body. These contrive, it seems, by bribery, to
procure more variety of food than the bread, soup, and vegetables, which
are the regular allowance; and are permitted to purchase better linen
than the ordinary convicts; but the dress and regulations are to outward
appearance the same in all. Those condemned for military insubordination
are marked by a bullet round their necks, and the convicts cast for life
by a green cap. The individuals whose term of confinement is nearly
expired wear only an iron ring round the ankle, as it is presumed they
will not incur the penalty of fifty blows and three years additional
confinement by an attempt to escape: there are others, however,
sentenced for five, ten, fifteen, or twenty years, and these are heavily
ironed and more strictly watched.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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