Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819Hughes, John
History
Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819
Hughes, John
Provence (France) -- Description and travel; Rhône River (Switzerland and France)
The amphitheatre of Frejus, to pass to a more dignified subject, is
situated without the walls of the town, on the side by which we had
entered from Toulon; and is sufficiently perfect to be interesting,
though it must suffer by a comparison with the better known, and finer
specimens of the same sort which exist. There is also a temple, and an
arch, the latter known by the name of the Porte Doree, neither of which
possesses any thing remarkable when compared with the ruins of Nismes
and Orange. The aqueduct built by Vespasian, and situated to the
north-east of the town, is on a more extensive scale, and taken with its
concomitants, better merits the attention of a painter: even when viewed
from under the walls of Frejus, which it adjoins at one end, it
possesses as sombre a character of repose as Poussin could have wished,
and which is unbroken by the intervention of mean houses, and busy
figures. Its scattered groupes recede from the eye up a solitary valley,
interspersed with clumps of olive trees, and backed by pine forests, and
the foreground derives a degree of wildness from the profusion of
Spanish broom of an unusual size and beauty, with which its scattered
blocks are fringed. We walked also to the small village of St. Raphael,
a mile or two from the town, which is the modern port of Frejus, and
stands in what was formerly the main sea; while the Pharos which marked
the entrance of the ancient harbour is now surrounded by an alluvial
meadow, and in place of the numerous vessels which must have crowded the
ancient quay, a brig, and two or three feluccas, were quietly at anchor.
A change like this, of the very soil, and local features, speaks more
strongly to the imagination than the most mighty and extensive ruins.
29th.--We rose at a very early hour to pursue our route,
----for our sleep
Was airy light, from pure digestion bred,
And temperate vapours bland,
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