Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819Hughes, John
History
Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819
Hughes, John
Provence (France) -- Description and travel; Rhône River (Switzerland and France)
or indeed thicker, and tanned a bright copper colour by sun and salt
water; his broad face grinning with good humour, from beneath a mane as
shaggy as a lion's. It may be supposed that two or three such rowers,
proud of the new honour of officiating in a pleasure-boat, got us on
more quickly than the less athletic boatmen of show lakes, and we soon
landed at the small fort which was the object of our pursuit, and which
the commandant politely allowed us to explore. At its eastern extremity
is situated a guard-house, a chamber of which on the ground floor served
as the prison of the mysterious captive; it is airy and commodious
enough, in comparison with places of the sort in general; but the height
of its only window, strengthened by treble bars from the sea, and the
perpendicular cliff which it overhangs, with the dangerous breach under
it, are sufficient protections against any escape. For the last five
years no persons have been confined in this fort, which was formerly
used exclusively as a state prison, but in the Revolution its benefits
were extended to persons of all ranks. Restraint, indeed, is not at
present the order of the day within its precincts, to judge from
appearances. The soldiers seemed to have little or nothing to do, but to
flirt with two or three gaudily-dressed negresses, who showed their
white teeth and their black muzzles from the doors of the casernes, and
to laugh at the chaplain of the garrison, for such I conclude was the
grade of the old priest, who met us, toddling about in a state of
drunken fatuity, very much resembling the condition of Obadiah in the
Committee, with a nose exhibiting the visible effects of a fight or a
fall. Having escaped at last from the good man's persecuting attentions,
we got back to Cannes in time to make a sketch from the precise spot
where Buonaparte landed.[54]
[Footnote 53: See Colman.]
[Footnote 54: Vide Cooke's Views.]
May 30.--From Cannes to Antibes eleven miles; a pleasant drive, chiefly
running close to the sea. Though considerably flattered in Vernet's
beautiful picture at the Louvre, Antibes, nevertheless, leaves a
pleasing impression on the mind, from its airy, well-frequented,
prosperous appearance, and the bustle arising from the presence of a
garrison. Its inner harbour, and the neck of land which defends it,
terminated by a little picturesque fort, seem beautifully constructed by
nature for their respective purposes; but I do not know of any thing
else meriting notice.
CHAP. XIII.
NICE--COL DE TENDE--CONCLUSION.
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