Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819Hughes, John
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Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819
Hughes, John
Provence (France) -- Description and travel; Rhône River (Switzerland and France)
traveller desirous of making a sketch of what is an unique thing in its
way, would do well to get three hours start of his carriage from
Breglio,[56] and scramble among the heights to the right of the river,
for a point which gives a more accurate idea of Saorgio than we could
obtain from the valley. The view is attempted in aquatinta in Beaumont's
Maritime Alps, and badly as it is executed, the original drawing must
have been good, and, as far as I can judge, have given an accurate idea
of it. The peasants call the place by some name sounding in their patois
like Chavousse; it cannot, however, be mistaken. This is the only spot
between Breglio and Tende which would be adapted for a drawing; but the
scenery, nevertheless, is of the most stupendous and extraordinary
nature I ever witnessed, exceeding, on the whole, the defile of Gondo
and Iselle in the route of the Simplon, and more decided, though less
varied in its features, than that justly admired spot. The pass is not
on a larger scale than the Val d'Ollioules, as far as Saorgio; but after
leaving the latter village, the rocks rise to a much greater height, and
assume a more savage character. It is impossible to form an adequate
idea of the depth of the defile and its effect on the eye, without
actual inspection; the nearest approach to it will be made by conceiving
a chasm rent from top to bottom by an earthquake through Snowdon, or
any other mountain of similar height. For about twelve miles you travel
in the condition of those fabled criminals,
"Quos super atra silex jamjam lapsura, cadentique
Imminet assimilis."
[Footnote 56: There is, I believe, no inn at Saorgio.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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