Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819Hughes, John
History
Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819
Hughes, John
Provence (France) -- Description and travel; Rhône River (Switzerland and France)
grave but the gulf of Lyons, have denominated this building the tomb of
Pilate.
Near Vienne the country of silk-worms begins, every tree almost being a
mulberry; and on the steep hills, which inclose the channel of the Rhone
during two days journey from this town, the celebrated Cote-Roti wine is
chiefly produced. The vineyards are in the highest state of cultivation;
and, as in Burgundy also, the nature and position of the soil seem to
operate as a forcing-wall upon the vines, which had, at this early
season, made immense shoots from their knotty close-pruned stumps. Here
I frequently observed the industrious expedient practised in many parts
of Valencia and Catalonia. On the steepest parts of the hills, terraces
above terraces, of loose stones, are built to secure and consolidate the
scanty portion of earth which would otherwise be washed away from the
roots of their vines by the first winter storm; and not a spot is
neglected, however unpromising and difficult of access, where a
barrow-full of mould can be raked together, and increased by
hand-carriage. One cannot witness such industry without wishing that it
could procure more of the comforts of life; but here, as in Burgundy,
the exertions of the inhabitants seem hardly repaid by a bare
subsistence, if one may judge by the general appearance of their houses
and persons. Those travellers who have not yet learned to button
themselves up in total indifference, will find, that the interest and
pleasure derived from a tour depend on nothing more than on the apparent
well-being of those whom they see around them. It is this circumstance
which, viewed in the mind's eye, throws a perpetual sunshine over the
fine scenes of Tuscany and Catalonia, and lends a charm even to the flat
uninteresting corn-fields of Picardy. The absence of it, on the
contrary, disfigures the finest scenes in the south of Italy, and causes
Naples, the most delightful spot on earth, perhaps, for situation and
climate, to dwell on the recollection like a whited sepulchre, a gilded
lazar-house of helpless and incurable wretchedness. A Roman beggar,
glaring at you from the arches of a ruined temple, like one of Salvator
Rosa's Radicals, with a look at once abject and ferocious, may be,
perhaps, a characteristic accompaniment to the scene; but the active,
erect walk, the frank countenance, and cheerful salutation of a peasant
of the Val d'Arno, leave a more pleasing recollection on the mind, as
connected with the ideas of comfort, manliness, and independence.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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