Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819Hughes, John
History
Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819
Hughes, John
Provence (France) -- Description and travel; Rhône River (Switzerland and France)
May 9.--To Loriol five miles. The road passes through a country as
beautiful and diversified as before, seldom deviating above a mile or
two from the course of the river: corn and hay-fields, the latter fit
for cutting, mulberry, almond, and fig-trees, cover every inch of
ground. About a mile before we reached Loriol, and just after passing a
small town called Livron, we crossed the Drome, over a noble bridge of
three arches, constructed of a rough sort of whitish marble, and
reminding us somewhat of a reduced section of the Strand bridge. Its
massy solidity is not misplaced, as a view up the mountain glen to the
left of it convinced us. Though the river was at this time low, the
immense extent of dry beds of gravel showed what its volume and force
must be when swoln by rain; and the cluster of gloomy mountains which
close the valley from whence it issues, seem the perpetual abode of
storms. In one of them I recognised the Montagne de Midi, whose form is
so remarkably perpendicular when seen from Tain; and altogether, I have
no idea of forms more wild and extraordinary upon so large a scale. The
rocks of St. Michel, in Savoy, near St. Jean de Maurienne, are a
miniature resemblance of them; but a better idea as to size and
wildness, may be formed by those who recollect the mountains of Nant
Francon, in Wales, and can imagine them not yet settled into place,
after the first confusion of the Titanic war.
"Ter sunt conati imponere Pelio Ossam
Scilicet, atque Ossa frondosum involvere Olympum;
Ter pater exstructos dejecit fulmine montes."
The view is worth several hours of an artist's time, and its effect is
considerably increased by a solitary tower, resembling a moss-trooper's
abode, which stands in the middle distance. It is called, as we
understood, the Chateau de Crest, and is the relic of a state prison. On
passing a corner of rising ground this wild valley disappears, and the
same rich and cheerful country as has been already described
recommences. The same unbroken rocky barrier bounds the Rhone on the
right, while in front numberless peaks of very distant mountains become
visible over the plain through which its windings are traced.
The neat-looking inn at Loriol probably affords better breakfasts than
the cafe, which, in spite of its neat outside, is dirty and imposing, an
exception to the usual rule.
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