Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819Hughes, John
History
Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819
Hughes, John
Provence (France) -- Description and travel; Rhône River (Switzerland and France)
To Montelimart fifteen miles: the first three we walked, and rested on a
rising ground, commanding in each direction a long day's journey through
this fine district. Our walk perhaps made us relish the more a bottle of
the vin du pays, which Derbieres, a little village a mile or two farther
on, afforded; but I have no doubt that worse is sold in Paris at seven
or eight francs a bottle, under the name of pink champagne: it is at
least worth the while of any thirsty traveller to try the experiment, if
it were merely for the sake of the civil old landlady of the little inn.
We could obtain no information from her respecting the history of a
singular ruin on the opposite side of the river, excepting that it was
called Chateau Crucis, and about seven hundred years ago was an abbey.
Somewhat beyond this black pile stand two or three pyramidical rocks,
projecting from the general line of hills, the same probably which the
French Itineraire mentions as commanding a celebrated view, and
exhibiting in themselves a geological curiosity. I doubt, however,
whether any person would do well to cross the Rhone to explore them,
upon the mere credit of that wise octavo.
Montelimart is a large old town, the ancient fortifications of which,
as of Valence, remain in perfect preservation. The approach to it from
Loriol gives by no means so favourable an idea of it as it deserves; and
to estimate its beauties fully, it is necessary to visit the citadel,
now used as a prison, which stands on a height above the town.[14] The
view which it commands is uniformly mountainous in the back grounds, and
flat and rich in its nearer details; but the finest part of it is
towards the east. The snowy Alps near Grenoble, and the line of
mountains from whence the Drome issues, and at whose foot Chateau
Grignan is situated, are its prominent features; and the little
farm-houses and tufts of trees in the rich pasture grounds which
intervene, seem disposed by the hand of a painter.
[Footnote 14: Vide Cooke's Views.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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