Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819Hughes, John
History
Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819
Hughes, John
Provence (France) -- Description and travel; Rhône River (Switzerland and France)
We found it necessary, both from common consideration for the
patache-horse, and our own necks, to walk up the two miles of steep
ascent, which occur after passing this last castle. On the top of the
hill all vegetation appears to cease, excepting a few shrubby dwarf
firs, and a profusion of aromatic plants, such as juniper, lavender,
southernwood, and wild thyme, which delight in the stony hot-bed
afforded by the interstices of disjointed rocks. The view from the high
table of ground to which we climbed at length fully repaid our
exertions, and may be almost compared, for extent and beauty, to those
from the church of Fourvieres, and the Montagne de Rochepot. Towards the
north we surveyed not only the valleys of Montelimart and the Drome, but
nearly the whole of the route of the three preceding days, bordered on
the one side by the abrupt and lofty mountains, from which the latter
river takes its source, and on the other by the steep banks of the
Rhone. On proceeding a little farther, over a road which consisted of
the native rock in all its native inequality, we caught sight of the
Comtat Grignan, and the great plain of Avignon, into which that district
opens in a south-western direction, flanked on the east by a colossal
Alp, called Mont Ventou, on whose long ridge traces of snow were still
visible. In the centre of the Comtat, [16]Chateau Grignan is easily
distinguished by the grandeur of its outline and proportions, and the
tall insulated rock on which it stands, somewhat resembling that on
which Windsor Castle is situated, though inferior in size. Its effect is
somewhat heightened by several other smaller crags at different
distances, which thrust themselves through the scanty stratum of soil,
each crowned with a solitary tower, or little fortalice. In the feudal
days of the Adhemars, ancestors of the Grignan family, who possessed the
whole of the Comtat, these were probably the peel-houses, or outposts,
of the old Chateau, in the quarter from which it would have been most
exposed to attack. The Chateau Race-du-fort was, in all likelihood, also
the key of the mountain glen leading to the hill which we were
descending, and formed the line of communication with Montelimart, which
was formerly included in the family territory. The records on this
subject trace the foundation of the lordship of Grignan up to the days
of Charlemagne, who is said to have created Adhemar,[17] one of his
paladins, Duke of Genoa, as a reward for having re-conquered Corsica
from the Saracens. Adhemar having fallen in a second expedition against
the same enemy, his children divided his possessions: the elder
remaining Duke of Genoa, another possessing the towns of St. Paul de
Trois Chateau et Mondragon; and a third, the sovereignty of Orange. A
fourth possessed the town of Monteil, called after him Monteil Adhemar,
or Montelimart; and in 1160, the emperor Frederic I. granted to Gerard
Adhemar de Monteil, his descendant and heir, the investiture of Grignan,
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