Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819Hughes, John
History
Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819
Hughes, John
Provence (France) -- Description and travel; Rhône River (Switzerland and France)
with many sovereign rights, such as that of coining money. It was to
this noble family that the Count de Grignan, whose third wife was the
daughter of Madame de Sevigne, traced his blood and inheritance in a
direct line.
[Footnote 16: Vide Cooke's Views.]
[Footnote 17: "Je me rejouis, avec M. de Grignan, de la beaute de sa
terrasse; s'il en est content, les ducs de Genes, ses grands peres,
l'auraient ete; son gout est meilleur que celui de ce temps-la;
* * * * * ces vieux lits sont dignes des Adhemars."--_Mad. de Sevigne_.]
As we reached the level of the plain, and approached the castle, its
commanding height and structure seemed completely to justify Mad. de
S.'s expression to her daughter, "Votre chateau vraiment royal." Few
subjects certainly ever had such a residence as this; which, though
reduced to a mere shell by the ravages of the Revolution, still seems to
bespeak the hospitable and chivalrous character of its former possessor.
It rises from a terrace of more than a hundred feet in height, partly
composed of masonry, and partly of the solid rock. The town of Grignan,
piled tier above tier, occupies a considerable declivity at the foot of
this terrace, and communicates with the castle by a road which winds
round the ascent, and terminates in a massy gateway.
On entering the town, we were directed to the Bons Enfans, kept by a man
of the name of Peyrol; which, contrary to the expectations we had
naturally formed of an inn not much frequented, provided us with a
breakfast, which even the editor of honest Blackwood would delight to
describe in all its minutiae, for it was quite Scotch in variety and
excellence, and served up with great cleanliness. It may be well to
remark, that as far as I could judge from the appearance of the rooms, a
family might spend two or three days here without sacrificing their
comfort to their curiosity, and would be as well off as at the Quatre
Nations at Massa, or the Tre Maschere at Caffagiolo, the models of
little country inns. Our host, we found, was entrusted with the
privilege of showing the castle by the Count de Muy, in whose family he
had been a servant; and he accordingly accompanied us in our visit
thither. On gaining the level of the terrace, we found the wind, which
had been imperceptible in the town, blowing with such force, as to
account for[18] Mad. de Sevigne's fears lest her daughter should be
carried away from her "belle terrasse" by the force of the Bise. Persons
travelling to the south of France for the sake of health, should be
particularly on their guard against this violent and piercing wind, as
well as that called the Mistral; both of which are occasionally
prevalent in this country at most seasons of the year, and render warm
clothing adviseable. I shall quote, as illustrative of the power with
which the Bise blows, an extract from a letter by an intelligent
traveller, written previous to the destruction of Chateau Grignan: "En
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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