Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819Hughes, John
History
Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819
Hughes, John
Provence (France) -- Description and travel; Rhône River (Switzerland and France)
The admirers of show houses, may find some gratification in visiting the
hotel of M. De Leutre, the banker; which was purchased of M. Villeneuve,
an emigre, and contains, besides the usual etceteras of carving and
gilding, orange-trees, and gold fish, a curious collection of prints
representing Chinese battles, and supposed to be the only perfect
duplicate of that in the royal collection. A sight more interesting is
presented in the hospital of invalid soldiers, established in the place;
1500 of whom are maintained as in-pensioners, apparently in great
comfort. "On est bien ici," said a blind veteran, who, hearing the
voices of strangers, invited us to walk in; and indeed most of those
whom we saw strolling in the garden, or sitting under the shade of the
trees, seemed very cheerful, though some of them, and those very young
men, were dreadfully mutilated, and the loss of both legs very common.
The two buildings which accommodate them were formerly the Convent des
Celestins, and that of the Dames de St. Louis. Two other handsome
convents have been converted to uses less beneficent, one being now a
gunpowder manufactory, and the other a cannon foundery.
In the evening we walked across the long wooden bridge adjoining our
hotel,[31] towards the western bank of the Rhone; and the expectations
which we had formed of the view from this quarter, were not
disappointed. The Roche Don terminates more abruptly on the side of the
river than in any other part, and in a manner which sets off strikingly
the commanding height of the legate's palace. With this princely pile of
building, the broken Gothic bridge and its guard-house, the ancient
palace of the archbishop, and a portion of the battlemented walls of
Avignon, combine to form a striking architectural group, whose unity of
character is hardly at all broken by meaner objects; and the whole is
well backed by Mont Ventou and the Dauphine Alps. From this spot we
again returned to Roche Don, a station to which every visitor of Avignon
may return twice or thrice in the day with undiminished pleasure. In our
way we fell in with a procession of children, the eldest of whom could
not be more than seven years of age, in pairs, and with lighted candles
in their hands, escorting a cross of lath and a very indifferent daub,
which represented some female saint, and screaming in chorus with all
their might. Those who had no candles, ran about with little dishes,
vociferously begging money to buy some; and in spite of the respect with
which one would wish to consider whatever fellow Christians choose to
denominate, in pure earnest, a religious ceremony, it was impossible not
to be reminded, by the petitions of these sucking Catholics, of Guy
Fawkes's little votaries on the fifth of November. We thought
involuntarily of a boy who had followed us that very morning into the
church of St. Didier, tossing a ball in his hand, and after crossing
himself with great gravity, immediately began his game again. Whether
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account