Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819Hughes, John
History
Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819
Hughes, John
Provence (France) -- Description and travel; Rhône River (Switzerland and France)
In the evening we departed for Cette. The road, according to the set
phrase of the French Itineraire, is through a "campagne de plus
agreables;" but our observation showed us only a bleak high common to
the right, and to the left a succession of etangs and sandy flats,
affording a prospect at once desolate and uninteresting. The space
between the etangs and the road is generally marshy; and instead of a
fine blue expanse of sea in motion, the horizon is commonly bounded by a
long white sandy line, over which the sails of the little vessels appear
very oddly. One or two houses erected on these ridges, which border the
etangs, give to the view, if possible, a still more desolate appearance,
being totally unaccompanied by even a tree or a patch of verdure, and
only serve to remind you of the nakedness of the land. Near Frontignan
the prospect improves, as far merely as concerns its fertility; for it
is in the vicinity of this town that the famous Frontignac wine, or to
denominate it more correctly, the Muscat de Frontignan, is made. The
only thing during this evening's route which could be considered as a
feature, was the lofty cape at whose foot Cette stands; a perfect idea
of which, from the side on which we approached it, is given by Vernet's
picture of that port, in the Louvre. A bridge of fifty-one arches,
traversing a series of swampy ground and etangs, connects this
promontory with terra-firma, and crosses the great Languedoc canal,
which communicates at this spot with the sea. A beautiful sunset, which
made the whole expanse of back-water appear of a rose-colour, and which,
I confess, I have seldom seen equalled in England, gave as much richness
to the view as it was capable of receiving. There is naturally but
little in it; and the effect of Vernet's view is derived from accidental
circumstances purposely introduced; so that, on the whole, we wished
that our evening's excursion had been confined to the Place Peyrou. I
should, however, conceive the air of Cette to be much better adapted to
tender lungs than that of Montpelier, as well from the difference of
temperature, perceptible even to a person in sound health, as from the
superior shelter which its situation affords; while the high and exposed
site of Montpelier leaves a doubt whether, in most cases it would not be
more hurtful than salutary. The productions of the neighbourhood of
Cette are also in a more forward condition than those of Montpelier. We
saw hedges of arbor vitae in full flower; and peaches two-thirds grown,
in almost a wild state.
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