Some days have passed since I last had an opportunity of writing to
you. We have had much walking and no time to write since we left
Cairnish in South Uist. We started from Cairnish about twelve o’clock
on the 11th in a broken-down gig with a one-eyed horse, which was led
or rather pulled along by a native named Angus Macdougall.... North
Uist and Benbecula are separated by an arm of the sea which is some
five miles in breadth, but is so shallow that at low water it can be
forded. What a peculiar scene it was! A long stretch of mud-flats and
sand-banks broken here and there with reefs of tangle-covered rocks
and low green islets on which a few black cattle were grazing. Men
and women were busy cutting the tangle for kelp-burning, the smoke of
the fires rising here and there from various points of the dry land
on the Benbecula coast. Heavy drizzle wetted me through and through,
and it was most cheerless. At the opposite side of the ford we reached
a little inn, as dirty and clarty as all the inns are. We now got
out of the trap to walk, as we wished to save the poor horse as much
as possible, for the weary tramp before us. At the pace we went we
calculated we should reach Loch Boisdale about two or three in the
morning. Benbecula is about eight or nine miles in length, and is
perhaps the dreariest bit of land I ever traversed. It is nothing but
a big peat-moss, with a lot of lakes or boggy holes running through
it in all directions. Indeed there is about as much water as land.
Cultivation is a mere parody, everything bespeaks poverty. The people
are as usual haggard and ill-clad, and dirty in the extreme. Things
looked a little better as we got near the shore at Creagorry. Here
our friend Mr Carmichael met us and took us into his house.... It
was pleasant to get into a real house again and to sleep in a clean
comfortable bed. Next morning we were up at three o’clock in order to
catch the early ford between Benbecula and South Uist.... The ford
between Benbecula and South Uist is not nearly so broad as the North
Ford, but it is deeper. We got across about half-past four, and then I
got out to walk so that I might make observations as I went along. It
rained heavily for the first six miles and then cleared off, so that
I had time to dry again. The road goes through much the same kind of
scenery as Benbecula, but there are fine mountains immediately to the
left, and these we gradually neared, and skirted the base of them for
many miles. I saw so much glacial geology that I did not feel in the
least degree fatigued.... As we took our time by the way, stopping to
look at this, that, and t’other thing, it was nearly eight o’clock
when we reached a place called Askernish about six miles or so from
Loch Boisdale.... At five we set off again, and loitering by the way
to chat and smoke and do geology, we did not get into Loch Boisdale
until nine o’clock at night, having been out since four o’clock in the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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