morning. So off to bed somewhat fagged. Next morning we were astir by
six o’clock and set off in a boat for a sixteen-miles sail up the east
coast to Loch Eynort, intending to land there and climb Ben More, the
highest hill in South Uist. It was wet and cold, but we determined
to go on. The cliffs are wild and dreary, and fearful places to be
wrecked upon, for deep water runs up to the very rocks. We landed at
a place where Prince Charlie lay in hiding while the King’s cruisers
sailed past. It was a picturesque spot. Wild bare mountains cleft
by mountain-torrents surrounded the small glen, down which leapt a
noisy stream, on the bank of which were one or two thatched cots. The
shepherd came out and asked us to drink milk. It was a picturesque
interior that we were introduced to. There was the peat fire in the
centre, dogs, cocks and hens, cats, and a small pig crowded round the
fire, and the wife and lassies were bustling about. The spinning-jenny
stood in a corner. None of the women looked well. They were all white
and haggard. Carmichael told me afterwards that they wanted me to
prescribe for them, as they had imagined I was a medical man! Poor
things! I could not help thinking they were consumptive. Yet they all
seemed happy enough, and certainly though I have seen much poverty
all through these islands, yet I have not noticed any of that squalid
misery which is so common in our large towns. The people are poor, but
they always have something to eat. Their wardrobe can’t cost much, for
they make everything themselves, and what they make seems to last half
a lifetime. But to return to the shepherd’s house, we got our milk
and after sitting for a while rose to go. They are very polite these
Highlanders, much more so than most country folks in the mainland of
Scotland. I was only sorry I could not speak Gaelic, for few of them
had more than one or two words of English. The shepherd told us it
had been a bad year for the sheep, but not so bad, he thought, as it
seems to have been on the mainland. We bade good-bye and sailed into
Loch Eynort at a wild part of the coast, where we landed and dismissed
the boatmen and boat. But mists hung heavy on all the hills, and after
much climbing we were compelled much against our will to give up all
hope of getting to the top of Ben More. However, we managed to see a
good deal, and then struck right across the mountain tract to the flat
ground of the east coast, along which we had walked the day before.
Just before we got down to the road, the mists cleared away, and the
mountain-peak shone brilliantly forth; but it was now too late to
think of climbing Ben More. We had been tramping over rock and bog and
hill and dale for six hours, and we had still some twelve miles to
walk before reaching Loch Boisdale, and were reluctantly obliged to
abandon Ben More. But I was able nevertheless to make out all the main
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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