Yesterday we had a most interesting excursion to see an old fortified
mediæval cathedral town. You would have enjoyed it. It was quaint and
picturesque beyond measure. Evidently, now, cathedral and town are in
a backwater--the flood of life has long gone past them. The church,
however, contains magnificent wood-carving of the 13th century. It
was the kind of town of which one sometimes dreams--hardly a town,
but a sleepy village perched on a high rock with a wide outlook over
the lowlands, and a grand view of the snow-capped mountains to the
south. I saw one old house--or the top of it, rather--was for sale.
It had quaint dormer windows and corbel gables, and was shut off from
the narrow street by a high gate of weather-worn carved oak, hundreds
of years old. I was tempted to buy it--when you and I tired of the
world we could retreat to the seclusion of that sleepy old village,
and dream the days away. The sun was as usual blazing from a cloudless
sky, and as I leaned over the old battlements of the wall I could see
that the wall from top to base was aflare with wallflowers and other
plants, while mosses, ferns, and lichens were everywhere, every stone
encrusted with moss and every crevice of the masonry stocked with
flowers, etc.
In the same letter he says:--
Walking in the scorching heat is most fatiguing. I had over
twenty miles of such walking the other day, and will not repeat
the experience. All the same I delight in the blaze--the heat and
lightness seem to penetrate your skin and work their way to your very
vitals. How one’s blood courses! and how the old youthful feelings
come back!
Another passage from a later letter, written from Argelès, may be
quoted, less for its description than for the light it casts upon the
character of its author. It may be noted that by this time he was the
father of the much longed-for “wee lassie,” who had been born a few
years before. He says:--
The wee lassies are most delightful to look at. Many of them, as I
have already mentioned, are little beauties. Such sweet, demure,
kissable wee things they are, with their hair neatly done up, and
hanging down in a plait behind. They are all bare-headed and all are
dark. Brown to black hair, with soft liquid brown eyes, rich red lips,
and a rosy flush in their tawny faces.... In years to come I will
often dream of the bonny wee toddlers I stopped on the road to pet and
fondle in these beautiful valleys. R. was as much struck as I with the
children. But as I have my own wee lassie in my thoughts, he probably
did not feel his heart in his mouth and his eyes water as the wee ones
passed us on the road.
To these letters, written during the trip, may be added some extracts
from one written to a member of the family circle after his return
home. On 29th May he writes from Edinburgh:--
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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