James Russell Lowell, A Biography; vol 2/2Scudder, Horace Elisha
History
James Russell Lowell, A Biography; vol 2/2
Scudder, Horace Elisha
Authors, American -- 19th century -- Biography; Diplomats -- United States -- Biography; Lowell, James Russell, 1819-1891
From Cumberland we went right through to Grasmere, lodging at the
old Swan Inn (the only one left), which pleased me more than it did
Fanny. We drove to Dungeon Ghyll Force and Keswick, and then to
Lichfield. Here I had a most amusing evening in the smoking-room,
listening to the talk of the city magnates, full of _Philisterei_,
if you will, but with a full Shakespearian flavor and a basis of
English good sense that pleased me. From Lichfield through
Worcester to Hereford and thence to Gloucester, whose cathedral I
liked best on the whole, its centre tower being less squat than the
others. But the northern minsters beat ’em.
Thence to Tintern, where we spent four days, doing Ragland
meanwhile. From Tintern to Chepstow we took boat down the Wye, and
very delightful it was. Thence to Bristol, where we slept, saw St.
Mary Radcliffe and the cathedral, and then through to London. The
sight of masts at Bristol was a cordial to me, and I thought them
the finest trees I had seen in England.
I have not been over well since I have been in England. “Flying
gout” I am fain to call it, and I am now drinking _Vichy_ in the
hope to make it fly altogether. But it is partly _dumps_, I fancy,
for travelling bores me horribly. I am wretched at not finding a
letter from Mabel here, and J. H. and Rowse have vanished, leaving
no sign. I shall be all ready to come over so soon as I hear from
you. You will find me dull, but honestly willing to brighten. A few
days with you will do me infinite good. It is abroad that one truly
misses friends. At home one is always expecting them back, and they
do half come back in a thousand things that daily recall them. But
here!
_To the Same._
11 DOVER STREET, PICCADILLY,
20 September, 1872.
... I will take the room at your hotel to begin on Monday, and
shall without doubt be in Paris on Monday night at 8.15, according
to the railway guide. I can only hope that trains are more punctual
in France than here, where I have literally not found _one_ up to
time since I landed in Ireland, and often more than an hour behind
it....
My gout seems to have left off threatening, though it bullied me
well for some weeks, but I have been out of sorts ever since I got
here, _why_ I can’t divine. We have had letters from Mabel, in good
health and happy, which have done me great good....
_To the Same._
HOTEL DE LORRAINE, RUE DE BEAUNE, NO. 7,
16 October, 1872.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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