James's Account of S. H. Long's Expedition, 1819-1820, part 3James, Edwin
History
James's Account of S. H. Long's Expedition, 1819-1820, part 3
James, Edwin
Indians of North America; Rocky Mountains; United States -- Discovery and exploration; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
August 15th. Extensive tracts of loose sand, so destitute of plants,
and so fine as to be driven with the wind, occur in every part of
the saline sandstone formation we had as yet seen. They are perhaps
invariably the detritus of the sand-rock, deposited in valleys and
depressions, where the rapidity of the abrading currents has been
checked by permanent obstacles. This loose sand differs in colour from
the sandstone, which is almost invariably red; the difference may,
however, have been produced simply by the operation of water suspending
and removing the light colouring matter, no longer retained by the
aggregation of the sandstone. These fields of sand have most frequently
an undulating surface, occasioned probably not less by the operation of
winds than by the currents of water; a few plum bushes, almost the only
woody plants found on them, wherever they take root, form points, about
which the sand accumulates, and in this manner permanent elevations are
produced. The yucca angustifolia and the shrubby cactus are here rarely
seen; the argemone and the night-flowering bartonia have not entirely
disappeared, but are not of frequent occurrence.
Our horses had broken loose, and a part of them strayed from camp. This
occasioned some unusual delay, and the morning was somewhat advanced
when we commenced our ride. The day was bright and cool, comparatively
so at least, the mercury in {310} the extreme heat rising to only 95°
in the shade of our tent, whereas on several of the preceding days, it
had stood at or above 100° in a fairer exposure. A light breeze sprung
up from the south-west, and continued during the remainder of the day.
Our course led us twice across the bed of the river, which we found one
thousand and four hundred paces in width; and without water, except
in a few small pools, where it was stagnant. This wide and shallow
bed is included between low banks, sometimes sloped gradually, and
sometimes, though rarely, perpendicular, and rising scarcely more than
four feet from the common level of the bottom of the channel. Drift
wood is occasionally seen without these banks, affording evidence that
they are at times not only full, but overflowed. If they are ever but
partially filled, it is easy to see that what, for a great part of the
year, is a naked sand beach, then becomes a broad and majestic river.
It must flow with a rapid current, and in floods; its waters cannot be
otherwise than of an intense red colour. The immediate valley of the
river had now become little less than two miles in width; and had, in
some places, a fertile soil. This happens wherever there occur spots
having little elevation above the bed of the river, and which have not
recently been covered with sand.
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