James's Account of S. H. Long's Expedition, 1819-1820, part 4James, Edwin
History
James's Account of S. H. Long's Expedition, 1819-1820, part 4
James, Edwin
Indians of North America; Rocky Mountains; United States -- Discovery and exploration; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
The woodland growth, upon the lower part of the Canadian, consists of
cotton-wood, sycamore, white, blue, and black ash, swamp cedar, red
elm, coffee tree, yellow wood, sugar tree, box elder, white and black
walnut, wild cherry, mulberry, &c. in the river valley; and hickory,
white and post oak, black jack, black oak, &c. upon the adjacent
uplands. On a progress westward, the most valuable of the timber
trees above enumerated disappear, till at length occasional groves
of cotton-wood, mingled with mulberry, {233} red elm, and stunted
shrubbery of various kinds, constitute the only woodlands of the
country. On this occasion, it may be observed, that the cane or reed,
the pea-vine, pawpaw, spice-wood, hop-vine, and several other varieties
of shrubs and vines common only to rich soils, are no where to be found
within this section, or westward of the proposed meridian.
The country of the Canadian above that last considered, or that portion
of it west of the assumed meridian, appears to be possessed of a soil
somewhat richer than the more northerly parts of the section, but
exhibits no indications of extraordinary fecundity in any part of
it. Proceeding westward, a very gradual change is observable in the
apparent fertility of the soil, the surface becoming more sandy and
sterile, and the vegetation less vigorous and luxuriant. The bottoms
appear to be composed, in many places, almost exclusively of loose
sand, exhibiting but few signs of vegetation. Knobs and drifts of
sand, driven from the bed of the river by the violence of the wind,
are piled in profusion along the margin of the river throughout the
greater part of its length. It is remarkable, that these drifts are
in many instances covered with grape vines of a scrubby appearance,
bearing fruit in the greatest abundance and perfection. The vines grow
to various heights, from eighteen inches to four feet, unaccompanied,
in some instances, by any other vegetable, and bear a grape of a dark
purple or black colour, of a delicious flavour, and of the size of a
large pea or common gooseberry.
The waters of this section, almost in every part of it, appear to hold
in solution a greater or less proportion of common salt and sulphate
of magnesia, which, in many instances, render them too brackish or
bitter for use. Saline and nitrous efflorescences frequently occur
upon the surface, in various parts of the country, and incrustations
of salt, of considerable {234} thickness, are to be found in some few
places south of the Arkansa river. As to the existence of rock salt in
a mineral state some doubts are to be entertained, if the decision is
to rest upon the character of the specimens exhibited as proofs of the
fact. The several examples of this formation that we have witnessed,
are evidently crystalline salt deposited by a regular process of
evaporation and crystallization, and formed into concrete masses or
crusts upon the surface of the ground.
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