Jane Shore, the beautiful and unfortunate mistress of Edward IV, and
wife of the rich jeweller of Lombard Street, is represented in her two
portraits, one at King's College, Cambridge, and the other at Eton,
wearing elaborate necklaces. Around her throat are two strings of
pearls, with a necklet below of circular pieces of Gothic pattern,
supporting a lozenge-shaped pendant of similar design adorned with
pearls. Among sculptured representations of the necklet the most
interesting is that on the monument of Sir John Crosby (d. 1475) and his
wife in St. Helen's Church, Bishopsgate, where the latter wears a very
handsome necklace of roses, to which is attached a cluster of three
roses with three pendants below. Sir John's collar is somewhat similarly
formed of rosette-shaped ornaments. An early instance of a heavy
neck-chain of gold, worn upon the breast, is to be seen upon the famous
tapestry, considered to represent Henry VI and his Queen, in St. Mary's
Hall, Coventry.
Collars of extraordinary richness seem to have been worn by Henry IV;
for among the miscellaneous documents preserved at St. Paul's
Cathedral[58] is a list of various jewels set with diamonds both large
and small, with balas rubies, sapphires, and clusters of pearls, which
were to be employed for making collars for the king and queen. The
Inventories of the Exchequer contain frequent reference to what is
termed the _Iklyngton Coler_. This magnificent collar, which was
frequently pawned by Henry VI, was enriched with four rubies, four large
sapphires, thirty-two great pearls, and fifty-three pearls of a lesser
sort.[59]
[58] _Hist. MSS. Comm._, IX, p. 56.
[59] _Kalendars and Inventories_, II, p. 165, etc.
In addition to the purely ornamental necklaces, collars or chains of
"livery"--bearing the heraldic devices of the day--were assumed by
various royal and noble families, and were bestowed as marks of favour
or friendship on persons of various ranks, and both sexes, who wore them
as badges of adherence to those families. An instance of the bestowal of
a chain of this kind occurred in 1477 after the siege of Quesnoy by
Louis XI, who, witnessing a great feat of gallantry on the part of Raoul
de Lannoy, is reported to have placed on his neck a chain of great
value, and to have thus wittily addressed him: "Mon ami, vous êtes trop
furieux en un combat; il faut vous _enchaîner_, car je ne veux point
vous perdre, désirant me servir encore de vous plusieurs fois."
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