The various inscriptions and designs engraved on mediæval brooches are
of great interest. The majority of inscriptions are mottoes in French,
such as were frequently employed as posies upon rings and other
love-gifts. An inscription which occurs more than once is
IO . SVI . ICI . EN . LIEV . DAMI. Another _chanson_, reading thus in
modern French--_Je suis ici, à toi voici_, is found on several brooches
in the British Museum.
The dainty Prioress, Madame Eglentine, in the prologue of Chaucer's
_Canterbury Tales_ wore--
... a broche of gold ful shene,
On whiche was first y-written a crouned A,
And after, _Amor vincit omnia_.
The popularity of this last motto on the personal ornaments of the
Middle Ages may be attributed to its supposed influence as a love-charm.
A considerable number of legends are of a religious character, with
allusions to the Virgin and Saviour while a few are talismanic, and
contain inscriptions such as the names of the Kings of the East.
Ring-brooches, though generally circular, show a variety of other
shapes, such as hearts, trefoils, lozenges, etc. A heart-shaped brooch
of fine workmanship in chased and engraved gold is in the Victoria and
Albert Museum. It appears to be French and of the fifteenth century.
Upon its back is the inscription--_Nostre et tout ditz a vostre
[d]esir._
The brooches worn by the wealthy are often magnificent examples of
jewellery, enriched with gems set in delicate goldwork. A number of the
existing brooches are of such diminutive size--less than half an inch in
diameter--that they could only have been employed for fastening the very
thinnest tissue. The larger gold ring-brooches, of fine workmanship and
set with precious stones, are of great rarity. In the British Museum are
several choice specimens: the finest, formerly in the Londesborough
Collection, dates from the fourteenth century. It is mounted with
pearls, cabochon sapphires and emeralds, arranged in a variety of
settings, and further enriched with four bosses carved and pierced in
the forms of dragons and cockatrices. A remarkable brooch of the
thirteenth century, also from a well-known collection, that of Baron
Pichon, is preserved in the Victoria and Albert Museum. It is a circular
gold ring two inches in diameter, enriched with four sapphires and six
rubies in high cone-like settings formed of simple sheets of metal
wrapped round the stones. The bases of these collets are hidden on the
inner side by an encircling wreath of vine leaves delicately cut and
stamped in gold. The back is ornamented with a leaf design in niello.
There is a somewhat similar brooch, though only a fragment, in the Gem
Room of the British Museum.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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