A heavy ornamental mantle was often worn by both sexes over the dress.
It was open in front, and displayed the dress underneath. Upon its
opposite edges were fixed two ornamental rosettes or lozenges, connected
by cords terminating in tassels, or by a band across the breast. In the
case of ceremonious attire this band was of metal, profusely jewelled,
while the ornamental pieces or clasps at each end were of elaborate
goldwork set with precious stones. On the monumental effigy of Henry IV
in the Chapel of St. Thomas à Becket, at Canterbury Cathedral, the cloak
is secured by a rich band fastened at each end by diamond-shaped clasps
of fine design. Henry's Queen, Joanna of Navarre, who lies beside him,
has clasps of almost the same form, fixed near the shoulders, and united
by a simple band. Somewhat similar ornaments, rosette-shaped, can be
seen on the effigy of Anne of Bohemia, first wife of Richard II, in
Westminster Abbey.
Since the pectoral is sometimes worn together with these clasps, it is
evident that it often had nothing to do with closing the mantle; but
when a pin is attached behind, and it is employed for secular purposes,
it assumes the ordinary type of the modern brooch.
The English word for this smaller and secular variety of morse, which is
distinct from the fermail or ring-brooch, was _nouch_.[91] It was also
called _ouch_, by misdivision of _a_ nouch as _an_ ouch, and was
variously spelt _nuche_, _nowche_, _owche_, etc. That the nouch is the
actual English equivalent to the morse or pectoral is proved by a will
dated 1400,[92] in which among the jewels bequeathed to the shrine of
the Head of St. William of York was "unum monile, Anglicè nouche auri,
cum uno saphire in medio, et j. dyamand desuper, et circumpositum cum
pereles et emeraudes." Nouches were attached to the front of the
garment, but were occasionally worn upon the shoulder. On the effigy of
Henry II, at Fontevraud, and on that of Henry III[93] in the Chapel of
Edward the Confessor at Westminster Abbey, the mantle in each case is
fastened upon the right shoulder with a brooch of this kind.
[91] Probably a corruption of the Latin words _nusca_, _nuxa_,
a brooch or _fibula_ (_Prompt. Parv._, p. 359).
[92] _Testamenta Eboracensia_ (Surtees Society), I, p. 267.
[93] This effigy, and that of Anne of Bohemia, and of Henry IV
and his Queen, may be studied from reproductions in the National
Portrait Gallery.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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