In connection with the mediæval use of ancient engraved stones, the
fashion of wearing Roman intaglios in rings has already been noticed.
Upon the metal setting around these gems a legend in Latin was often
engraved; the most usual inscription being SIGILLUM SECRETI, SIGILLUM
MEUM, or the word SIGILLUM, followed by the name of the owner (Pl.
XXIII, 11).
Rings which have the appearance of being purely ornamental were worn
throughout the Middle Ages in considerable numbers both by men and
women; yet at the same time it must ever be borne in mind that the
stones set in them had probably in the eyes of the possessors a value
quite independent of their use as ornaments.
In the Gold Ornament Room of the British Museum is a collection of five
English rings of silver of the twelfth century. They are of small
intrinsic value, but of considerable interest as authenticated examples
of ornamental rings of the period; for with the exception of those found
on the fingers of prelates, the date of early rings is sometimes
difficult to determine. The rings were dug up at Lark Hill, near
Worcester, in 1854, together with upwards of two hundred pennies of
Henry II. They probably date, therefore, from about the end of the
century.[104]
[104] _Archæologia_, XXXVI, p. 200.
[Illustration: French gold ring, fourteenth century (Louvre).]
The peculiarity of many of the richer ornamental rings of this period is
the tendency to place the stone upon a high case or stalk, so that the
bezel is raised considerably above the hand. A curious example, dating
from the fourteenth century, is in the Sauvageot Collection in the
Galerie d'Apollon of the Louvre. It shows two dragons' heads issuing
from crown-shaped ornaments supporting a sapphire in a high collet.
In the fifteenth century a large number of rings appear to have been
habitually worn; and on the monument of Lady Stafford in Bromsgrove
Church, Worcestershire (1450), every finger but the last one on the
right hand is decorated with a ring. In many of the Flemish pictures of
the same date we find ornamental rings set with table-cut or cabochon
stones. The form of these is admirably represented in the portrait of a
goldsmith, ascribed to Gerard David, in the Royal Gallery at Vienna. In
his right hand he holds one ring, and in the left a short roll of
parchment, on which are placed four more. The rings are somewhat
massive, and thicken towards the bezel, where they are mounted with
table-cut stones within plain claw settings. In the same gallery is John
van Eyck's portrait, dated 1436, of John De Leeuw, jeweller to Philip
the Good, Duke of Burgundy. He holds between the thumb and forefinger of
his right hand a gold ring set with a small cabochon stone.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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