The mediæval girdle, seldom as in later times in the form of a chain,
but generally composed of leather, was sometimes ornamented in the most
costly manner. In the inventory of Edward II is "a girdle in the old
style [probably filigree-work] set with letters of pearls: the buckle
and mordant enamelled with escutcheons of the arms of England and
others."[109] In the expenses of the Great Wardrobe of Edward III[110]
there occurs an entry of 304 dozens of silver buckles, and a similar
number of pendants, while his jewels deposited in the Treasury included
many complete girdles enriched with enamels and precious stones.[111]
From the many fifteenth-century girdles of extraordinary richness
described in the inventories, the following, the property of Henry IV,
may be selected as an example: "Item, a girdle of black silk, of gold,
garnished with various stones. With 28 bars[112] of gold, 13 of which
are set with 13 balasses, and 4 pearls at the corners, and 14 bars, each
enamelled with various flowers, and on each 4 pearls. Set on the buckle
is one balas, 10 large and 6 small pearls. On the pendant one balas, 8
large and 5 small pearls."
[109] _Inventories of the Exchequer_, III, p. 142.
[110] _Archæologia_, XXXI, p. 55.
[111] _Inventories, etc._, III, pp. 174, 184.
[112] These bars of metal were attached vertically at intervals to the
belt or girdle to maintain the rigidity of the material. The word _bar_
(corresponding to the French _clou_) was subsequently applied to all
such attachments, which were sometimes perforated to allow the tongue
of the buckle to pass through them (Way, _Prompt. parv._, p. 24).
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