Though introduced early into Germany, the style of the Italian
Renaissance made its way but slowly in a country where the ideas of the
Middle Ages long held possession of people's minds. It was not till
after about 1515, when the spread of books and engravings quickened its
general acceptance, that the new movement gained ground there. The
German goldsmiths, when once they had cast aside the Gothic style,
seized upon Renaissance ornament with such avidity that by the second
half of the sixteenth century they had acquired a widespread fame, and
would seem by their richness of invention to have completely cast into
the shade the Italian jewellers of their own day.
From an early period there had been a steady flow of artists leaving
Germany to study in the great Italian ateliers. The principal of these,
and one who influenced his countrymen more than any, was Albert Dürer,
who showed in the engravings produced after his journey to Italy a
perfect apprehension of Italian design. As it travelled northward,
Renaissance ornament increased in freedom from classic rule, and in the
hands of the later draughtsmen and engravers who executed patterns for
the goldsmiths, it lost much of its original purity, and assumed a mixed
style, composed of strap and ribbon work, cartouches, and intricate
complications of architectural members; while the industrious
affectation of the jewellers of the day for manipulative difficulties
led to the production of ornaments whose effect is sometimes marred by
over-elaboration of detail.
In addition to other circumstances, we must remember that the greater
wealth of the middle classes was a powerful factor in the increasing
production of jewellery. The goldsmiths consequently occupied an
important position; and that there was a great demand for their services
is proved by the fact that patterns for jewellery executed on their
behalf by the foremost engravers of the day form no unimportant part of
the engraved work produced by these artists.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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